Карлос Кастанеда. Путешествие в Икстлен (engl)
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     Carlos Castaneda — "Journey to Ixtlan"

     INTRODUCTION

     On Saturday, May 22, 1971, I went  to Sonora,  Mexico, to see  don Juan
Matus, a Yaqui Indian sorcerer,  with whom I had been associated since 1961.
I thought that my visit on that day was going to be in no way different from
the scores of times I had gone to see him in the ten  years I  had been  his
apprentice.  The events that took  place on that  day and on  the  following
days, however, were momentous to me. On that occasion my apprenticeship came
to an end. This was not an arbitrary withdrawal on my part but  a bona  fide
termination.
     I have  already presented the case of my apprenticeship in two previous
works: The Teachings of Don Juan and A Separate Reality.
     My basic assumption in both books has been that the articulation points
in  learning  to  be  a  sorcerer  were the states  of  non-ordinary reality
produced by the ingestion of psychotropic plants.
     In this respect don Juan was an expert in the use of three such plants:
Datura inoxia, commonly known as jimson weed;  Lofihophora williamsii, known
as peyote; and a hallucinogenic mushroom of the genus Psilocybe.
     My perception of the  world through the  effects of those psychotropics
had been  so bizarre  and impressive that I  was forced to  assume that such
states were the only avenue to communicating and learning what don Juan  was
attempting to teach me. That assumption was erroneous.
     For the purposes  of avoiding any  misunderstandings about my work with
don Juan I would like to clarify the following issues at this point.
     So far I  have  made no  attempt  whatsoever  to place don  Juan  in  a
cultural  milieu. The  fact  that he considers himself  to be a Yaqui Indian
does not mean that  his knowledge of sorcery is known to or practiced by the
Yaqui Indians in general.
     All  the conversations that  don  Juan  and I  have  had throughout the
apprenticeship were conducted in  Spanish, and only because of  his thorough
command of that language was  I capable of obtaining complex explanations of
his system of beliefs.
     I  have maintained the practice  of referring to that system as sorcery
and I  have  also  maintained  the practice of referring  to don Juan  as  a
sorcerer, because these were categories he himself used.
     Since  I was  capable  of  writing down most  of  what  was said in the
beginning of the apprenticeship, and everything  that was said in the  later
phases  of it,  I gathered voluminous field notes. In order to  render those
notes  readable  and  still  preserve  the  dramatic  unity  of  don  Juan's
teachings, I have  had to edit them, but what  I have deleted is, I believe,
immaterial to the points I want to raise.
     In the case  of my work with don Juan I have limited my efforts  solely
to viewing him as a sorcerer and to acquiring membership in his knowledge.
     For  the purpose  of  presenting my  argument I must  first explain the
basic premise of sorcery as don Juan presented it to me.  He said that for a
sorcerer,  the  world of everyday  life  is not real,  or  out  there, as we
believe  it is. For a sorcerer, reality, or the world we all know, is only a
description.
     For the sake of validating this premise  don Juan concentrated the best
of his efforts into leading  me to a genuine  conviction that what I held in
mind  as  the  world  at  hand  was merely  a  description of the  world;  a
description that had been pounded into me from the moment I was born.
     He  pointed out that everyone who  comes into contact with a child is a
teacher who  incessantly describes  the world to him, until the moment  when
the  child is capable of perceiving  the world as it is described. According
to  don Juan,  we have no  memory of that portentous moment, simply  because
none of us could possibly have had any point of reference  to compare  it to
anything else. From that moment on, however, the child is a member. He knows
the description  of  the world; and his  membership  becomes fullfledged,  I
suppose,  when  he  is   capable   of   making  all  the  proper  perceptual
interpretations which, by conforming to that description, validate it.
     For don Juan, then,  the reality of our day-to-day life consists  of an
endless flow  of perceptual  interpretations  which we,  the individuals who
share a specific membership, have learned to make in common.
     The idea that  the perceptual interpretations  that make  up the  world
have a flow is congruous with the fact that they run uninterruptedly and are
rarely, if ever, open to question. In fact, the reality of the world we know
is  so taken for granted that the basic premise of sorcery, that our reality
is merely one  of  many  descriptions,  could hardly be  taken as a  serious
proposition.
     Fortunately,  in  the  case  of  my  apprenticeship,  don Juan  was not
concerned at all with whether or not I could take his proposition seriously,
and he proceeded to elucidate  his  points, in spite  of  my opposition,  my
disbelief, and my inability to understand  what  he  was saying. Thus, as  a
teacher of sorcery, don Juan endeavored to describe the world to me from the
very  first time  we talked.  My  difficulty in  grasping  his  concepts and
methods stemmed from the  fact that  the units of his description were alien
and incompatible with those of my own.
     His  contention was that  he was teaching me how to "see" as opposed to
merely "looking,  "  and that  "stopping  the world"  was the first step  to
"seeing."
     For years  I had treated the idea of "stopping  the world" as a cryptic
metaphor  that really did not mean anything. It was only during an  informal
conversation  that took place towards the end of  my  apprenticeship  that I
came  to fully  realize  its  scope  and  importance  as  one  of  the  main
propositions of donJuan's knowledge.
     Don Juan and I had been talking about different things in a relaxed and
unstructured manner. I  told him about a friend of mine and his dilemma with
his nine  year old son. The  child, who had been living with the mother  for
the past four years, was  then  living  with my friend, and the  problem was
what  to do with him?  According to my friend,  the child  was a  misfit  in
school; he lacked concentration and  was not interested in anything.  He was
given to tantrums, disruptive behavior, and to running away from home.
     "Your friend certainly does have a problem, " don Juan said, laughing.
     I wanted to keep on telling him all the "terrible" things the child had
done, but he interrupted me.
     "There  is no  need to  say any more about that poor  little boy,  " he
said. "There  is no  need for  you or  for  me to regard  his actions in our
thoughts one way or another."
     His manner was abrupt and his tone was firm, but then he smiled.
     "What can my friend do?" I asked.
     "The worst thing he could do is to force that child to agree with him,"
don Juan said.
     "What do you mean?"
     "I mean  that that child shouldn't be spanked  or scared by  his father
when he doesn't behave the way he wants him to."
     "How can he teach him anything if he isn't firm with him?"
     "Your friend should let someone else spank the child."
     "He can't let anyone else touch his little boy!" I  said,  surprised at
his suggestion.
     Don Juan seemed to enjoy my reaction and giggled.
     "Your friend is  not a warrior, " he said.  "If he were, he would  know
that the worst thing one can do is to confront human beings bluntly."
     "What does a warrior do, don Juan?"
     "A warrior proceeds strategically."
     "I still don't understand what you mean."
     "I mean that if your friend  were a warrior he would help his child  to
stop the world."
     "How can my friend do that?"
     "He would need personal power. He would need to be a sorcerer."
     "But he isn't."
     "In that case  he must use ordinary means to help his son to change his
idea of the world. It is  not stopping the world, but it will work just  the
same."
     I asked him to explain his statements.
     "If  I were  your friend, "  don  Juan said, "I  would  start by hiring
someone  to spank the little guy. I would go to  skid row and hire the worst
looking man I could find."
     "To scare a little boy?"
     "Not  just to scare a little  boy, you fool. That little fellow must be
stopped, and being beaten by his father won't do it.
     "If one  wants to  stop our fellow  men  one must always be outside the
circle that presses them. That way one can always direct the pressure."
     The idea was preposterous, but somehow it was appealing to me.
     Don Juan  was resting his chin on  his  left  palm.  His left  arm  was
propped  against his chest on a  wooden box that served as  a low table. His
eyes were closed but his eyeballs moved. I felt he was looking at me through
his closed eyelids. The thought scared me.
     "Tell me more about what my  friend should do with his  little boy, " I
said.
     "Tell him  to go to skid row and very carefully select an ugly  looking
derelict, " he went on. "Tell him to get a young one. One who still has some
strength left in him."
     Don  Juan then delineated a strange  strategy.  I was  to  instruct  my
friend to have  the man follow him or wait for him at a place where he would
go with his son. The man, in response to a prearranged cue to be given after
any objectionable  behavior on the part of the  child, was  supposed to leap
from  a hiding place, pick the child up, and spank the living  daylights out
of him.
     "After the man scares him, your  friend must help the little boy regain
his confidence, in any  way  he can.  If  he follows this procedure three or
four times  I assure you  that  that  child  will  feel  differently towards
everything.  He will change  his idea of the  world."' "What  if  the fright
injures him?"
     "Fright never injures anyone. What injures the spirit is having someone
always on your back, beating you, telling you what to do and what not to do.
     "When that  boy is more contained you must tell  your friend to do  one
last thing for him. He must find some way to get to a dead child, perhaps in
a hospital, or at the office  of a doctor.  He must take  his son  there and
show the dead child to him. He must let him touch the corpse  once with  his
left hand, on any place except  the corpse's  belly. After the boy does that
he will be renewed. The world will never be the same for him."
     I realized then that  throughout the years of our association  don Juan
had been employing with me, although on a different  scale, the same tactics
he was suggesting my friend should  use with his son. I asked  him about it.
He said that he had been  trying  all  along  to  teach me how to  "stop the
world."
     "You haven't  yet, " he said, smiling. "Nothing seems to work,  because
you are very stubborn. If you were  less stubborn, however, by now you would
probably  have  stopped the world with any of the  techniques I have  taught
you."
     "What techniques, don Juan?"
     "Everything I  have told  you to do was  a  technique  for stopping the
world."
     A  few months after that conversation don Juan accomplished what he had
set out to do, to teach me to "stop the world."
     That monumental  event  in my life compelled me to re-examine in detail
my  work of ten years. It became evident to  me that my original  assumption
about  the  role of psychotropic  plants was erroneous.  They were  not  the
essential feature of the  sorcerer's description of the world, but were only
an  aid to cement, so to speak,  parts  of the description which  I had been
incapable  of  perceiving otherwise.  My  insistence on  holding  on  to  my
standard version of reality  rendered me almost deaf and blind to don Juan's
aims. Therefore, it  was  simply my  lack of sensitivity  which had fostered
their use.
     In reviewing the  totality of my field notes  I  became aware that  don
Juan had  given me the bulk of the new description at  the very beginning of
our association in what he called "techniques for stopping the world." I had
discarded those parts of my field notes in my earlier works because they did
not  pertain  to  the  use of  psychotropic plants.  I  have now  rightfully
reinstated them in the total scope of don Juan's teachings and they comprise
the  first  seventeen chapters of this work. The last three chapters are the
field notes covering the events that culminated in my "stopping the world."
     In summing up I can say that when I began the apprenticeship, there was
another reality,  that is  to  say,  there was a sorcery  description of the
world, which I did not know.
     Don Juan, as a sorcerer and a teacher, taught me  that description. The
ten year apprenticeship I have undergone consisted, therefore, in setting up
that unknown reality by unfolding  its description, adding increasingly more
complex parts as I went along.
     The termination of  the  apprenticeship meant that I had learned  a new
description of the world in a convincing and authentic manner and thus I had
become capable of eliciting a new perception of the world, which matched its
new description. In other words, I had gained membership.
     Don Juan stated that in order to arrive  at  "seeing" one first  had to
"stop the  world." "Stopping the world" was indeed an appropriate  rendition
of  certain  states of  awareness in  which  the reality of everyday life is
altered  because  the   flow  of  interpretation,   which  ordinarily   runs
uninterruptedly, has  been stopped by  a set of  circumstances alien to that
flow. In  my  case  the  set  of circumstances alien  to my  normal  flow of
interpretations was  the  sorcery  description  of  the  world.  Don  Juan's
precondition for "stopping the world" was that  one had to be convinced;  in
other words, one had to learn the new description in  a total sense, for the
purpose  of  pitting  it  against the  old  one, and in  that way break  the
dogmatic  certainty,  which  we  all  share,  that   the  validity  of   our
perceptions, or our reality of the world, is not to be questioned.
     After "stopping the world" the next step was "seeing." By that don Juan
meant what  I  would like  to categorize as "responding  to  the  perceptual
solicitations of  a world outside the  description  we have learned  to call
reality."
     My contention is  that all  these steps can only be understood in terms
of the description to which they belong; and since it was a description that
he  endeavored to  give me from the beginning, I must then let his teachings
be the only source of entrance into  it. Thus, I have left don  Juan's words
to speak for themselves.

     PART ONE
     STOPPING THE WORLD

     REAFFIRMATIONS FROM THE WORLD AROUND US

     "I understand you know a great deal about plants, sir, " I said to  the
old Indian in front of me.
     A friend of mine had just put us  in contact and  left the  room and we
had introduced  ourselves to each other.  The  old man had  told me that his
name was Juan Matus.
     "Did your friend tell you that?" he asked casually.
     "Yes, he did."
     "I pick plants, or rather, they let me pick them, " he said.
     We were in  the waiting room  of a bus depot in Arizona. I asked him in
very formal Spanish if he would allow me to question him. I said, "Would the
gentleman [caballero] permit me to ask some questions?"
     "Caballero,  "  which  is  derived  from  the  word  "caballo,"  horse,
originally meant horseman or a nobleman on horseback.
     He looked at me inquisitively.
     "I'm a horseman without a horse, " he said with a big smile and then he
added, "I've told you that my name is Juan Matos."
     I liked his smile.  I thought  that, obviously  he was a man that could
appreciate directness and I decided to boldly tackle him with a request.
     I  told  him I was  interested  in collecting  and  studying  medicinal
plants. I said that my special interest was the uses  of  the hallucinogenic
cactus,  peyote,  which  I had studied at  length  at  the university in Los
Angeles.
     I  thought that my presentation was very serious.  I was very contained
and sounded perfectly credible to myself.
     The old man  shook his head slowly,  and  I, encouraged by his silence,
added that it would no doubt be profitable for  us to get together and  talk
about peyote.
     It was at that moment that he lifted his head and looked me squarely in
the eyes. It was a formidable look. Yet it was  not  menacing or awesome  in
any way. It was a  look that went  through me. I became  tongue tied at once
and  could not continue with the harangues about myself. That was the end of
our  meeting. Yet he  left on a note  of hope.  He said that perhaps I could
visit him at his house someday.
     It would be difficult  to assess the  impact of  don Juan's look  if my
inventory of experience is not  somehow brought to bear on the uniqueness of
that event. When I began  to study anthropology and thus met don Juan, I was
already  an expert  in "getting around." I had left my home years before and
that  meant in my evaluation that I was capable  of taking care  of  myself.
Whenever I  was rebuffed could usually cajole my way in or make concessions,
argue,  get angry,  or  if nothing succeeded I would  whine or complain;  in
other  words,  there  was  always something  I  knew  I could  do  under the
circumstances, and never in my life had any human being  stopped my momentum
so swiftly and  so definitely as don Juan did that afternoon. But it was not
only a matter of being silenced; there had been times when I had been unable
to say  a word to my opponent because  of some inherent respect  I  felt for
him, still my anger or frustration was manifested in my thoughts. Don Juan's
look, however, numbed me to the point that I could not think coherently.
     I  became thoroughly intrigued with that stupendous look and decided to
search for him.
     I prepared myself for six months, after  that first meeting, reading up
on  the uses  of  peyote  among  the American Indians, especially about  the
peyote cult  of the  Indians of the Plains. I  became acquainted with  every
work available, and when I felt I was ready I went back to Arizona.

     Saturday, December 17, 1960

     I found his  house  after  making long  and taxing  inquiries among the
local Indians.  It was early afternoon when I arrived and parked in front of
it. I saw him sitting on a  wooden milk crate. He seemed to recognize me and
greeted me as I got out of my car.
     We exchanged social courtesies for  a while and then, in plain terms, I
confessed that I had been very devious with him the first time we had met. I
had boasted that I knew a  great  deal about peyote, when in reality  I knew
nothing about it. He stared at me. His eyes were very kind.
     I told him that for six months I had been reading to prepare myself for
our meeting and that this time I really knew a great deal more.
     He  laughed.  Obviously, there was  something in my statement which was
funny to him. He was laughing at me and I felt a bit confused and offended.
     He apparently noticed  my discomfort and assured me that although I had
had good  intentions  there  was really  no way  to prepare myself  for  our
meeting.
     I wondered if  it would have been  proper to ask whether that statement
had any  hidden meaning,  but I did not; yet he seemed  to be attuned  to my
feelings and proceeded to  explain  what  he had  meant.  He  said  that  my
endeavors  reminded him of  a  story  about some people a  certain king  had
persecuted  and killed  once upon a  time.  He  said that in  the story  the
persecuted people were indistinguishable from their persecutors, except that
they insisted on pronouncing  certain words in a peculiar manner proper only
to them; that flaw, of course, was the giveaway. The  king posted roadblocks
at critical points where an  official would  ask  every  man  passing by  to
pronounce  a  key  word.  Those  who could  pronounce  it the  way  the king
pronounced it would  live,  but  those who could not were immediately put to
death.  The point  of the  story was  that  one day a young  man  decided to
prepare himself for passing the roadblock by  learning to pronounce the test
word just as the king liked it.
     Don Juan said, with a  broad smile, that in fact  it took the young man
"six months" to  master such  a  pronunciation. And then came the day of the
great  test; the young  man  very confidently came  upon  the  roadblock and
waited for the official to ask him to pronounce the word.
     At  that  point don Juan  very  dramatically stopped his recounting and
looked at me. His pause was very studied and seemed a bit corny to me, but I
played along. I  had heard the theme of the  story before. It had to do with
Jews in  Germany and the way one could tell  who was a Jew  by the  way they
pronounced  certain words.  I also knew the  punch  line: the  young man was
going to  get caught because the  official  had  forgotten the key word  and
asked him  to pronounce  another word which was very  similar  but which the
young man had not learned to say correctly.
     Don Juan seemed to be waiting for me to ask what happened, so I did.
     "What  happened to him?" I asked, trying to  sound naive and interested
in the story.
     "The  young man, who was  truly foxy,  "  he  said, "realized that  the
official had forgotten the key  word, and before the man could say  anything
else he confessed that he had prepared himself for six months."
     He made another pause and looked at me with  a mischievous glint in his
eyes. This  time he had turned the tables  on me. The young man's confession
was a new element and I no longer knew how the story would end.
     "Well, what happened then?" I asked, truly interested.
     "The young man  was killed  instantly, of course,  " he said  and broke
into a roaring laughter.
     I liked  very  much the way  he  had entrapped my interest; above all I
liked the way he had linked that story to my own case. In fact, he seemed to
have constructed it to fit me. He was making fun of me  in a very subtle and
artistic manner. I laughed with him.
     Afterwards I told him that no matter how stupid I sounded I  was really
interested in learning something about plants.
     "I like to walk a great deal, " he said.
     I  thought  he was deliberately changing the  topic of  conversation to
avoid answering me. I did not want to antagonize him with my insistence.
     He asked me if I wanted to go with him on a short hike in the desert. I
eagerly told him that I would love to walk in the desert.
     "This is no picnic, " he said in a tone of warning.
     I told him that I wanted very seriously to work with him. I said that I
needed information, any kind of information, on the uses of medicinal herbs,
and that I was willing to pay him for his time and effort.
     "You'll be working for me, " I said. "And I'll pay you wages."
     "How much would you pay me?" he asked.
     I detected a note of greed in his voice.
     "Whatever you think is appropriate, " I said.
     "Pay me for my time . . . with your time, " he said.
     I  thought  he was  a  most  peculiar  fellow. I  told  him I  did  not
understand  what he meant. He  replied that there was nothing  to  say about
plants, thus to take my money would be unthinkable for him.
     He looked at me piercingly.
     "What are  you  doing  in  your pocket?" he asked,  frowning. "Are  you
playing with your whanger?"
     He was referring to my taking notes on a minute pad inside the enormous
pockets of my windbreaker.
     When I told him what I was doing he laughed heartily.
     I said that I did not want to disturb him by writing in front of him.
     "If you want to write, write, " he said. "You don't disturb me."
     We hiked in the surrounding desert until it was almost dark. He did not
show  me  any plants nor did  he talk about  them  at all. We  stopped for a
moment to rest by some large bushes.
     "Plants are very  peculiar  things,  " he said without  looking at  me.
"They are alive and they feel."
     At the very moment he  made  that statement a strong gust of wind shook
the desert chaparral around us. The bushes made a rattling noise.
     "Do you hear that?" he asked  me, putting his  right hand to his ear as
if  he  were aiding his hearing. "The  leaves and the wind are agreeing with
me."
     I laughed. The friend who had put us in  contact had already told me to
watch out, because the old man  was very eccentric. I thought the "agreement
with the leaves" was one of his eccentricities.
     We walked for a while longer but he  still  did not show me any plants,
nor  did he pick any of them.  He simply breezed through the bushes touching
them  gently. Then he came to a  halt and sat down on a  rock and told me to
rest and look around.
     I insisted on talking. Once more I let him know that I wanted very much
to learn about plants,  especially peyote. I  pleaded  with him to become my
informant in exchange for some sort of monetary reward.
     "You don't have  to  pay me, " he said.  "You can ask  me anything  you
want. I will tell you what I know and then I will tell you what  to  do with
it."
     He asked me if I agreed with the arrangement. I was delighted.  Then he
added  a cryptic statement: "Perhaps there is nothing to learn about plants,
because there is nothing to say about them."
     I did not understand what he had said or what he had meant by it.
     "What did you say?" I asked.
     He repeated  the  statement  three  times and then the  whole area  was
shaken by the roar of an Air Force jet flying low.
     "There! The world has just agreed with me, " he  said, putting his left
hand to his ear.
     I found him very amusing. His laughter was contagious.
     "Are you  from  Arizona, don Juan?" I asked, in  an  effort to keep the
conversation centered around his being my informant.
     He looked at me  and nodded affirmatively. His eyes seemed to be tired.
I could see the white underneath his pupils.
     "Were you born in this locality?"
     He  nodded his head  again without  answering me.  It  seemed  to be an
affirmative  gesture,  but it also seemed to be the nervous head shake  of a
person who is thinking.
     "And where are you from yourself?" he asked.
     "I come from South America, " I said.
     "That's a big place. Do you come from all of it?"
     His eyes were piercing again as he looked at me.
     I began to  explain the circumstances of  my birth, but he  interrupted
me.
     "We  are alike  in this respect, " he said. "I  live here now  but  I'm
really a Yaqui from Sonora."
     "Is that so! I myself come from-"
     He did not let me finish.
     "I know, I  know,  " he said.  "You are who you  are, from wherever you
are, as I am a Yaqui from Sonora."
     His eyes were very shiny and his laughter was  strangely unsettling. He
made  me  feel  as if he had caught me in  a  lie. I experienced  a peculiar
sensation of guilt.  I had the feeling he  knew something I did not know  or
did not want to tell.
     My strange embarrassment grew. He must have noticed it, for he stood up
and asked me if I wanted to go eat in a restaurant in town.
     Walking  back  to his home  and  then driving  into town  made me  feel
better, but I was not quite relaxed. I somehow  felt  threatened, although I
could not pinpoint the reason.
     I wanted to buy him some beer in the  restaurant. He said that he never
drank, not even beer. I laughed to myself. I did not believe him; the friend
who had put us in contact had told me that "the old man was plastered out of
his  mind most of the time." I really  did not mind  if  he  was lying to me
about not drinking. I liked him; there was something very soothing about his
person.
     I must  have had  a look of doubt on  my  face, for he then went on  to
explain  that  he used to  drink  in  his  youth, but that one day he simply
dropped it.
     "People hardly ever  realize that we  can cut  anything from our lives,
any time, just like that." He snapped his fingers.
     "Do you think that  one can  stop smoking or  drinking  that easily?" I
asked.
     "Sure!"  he  said  with  great conviction.  "Smoking  and drinking  are
nothing. Nothing at all if we want to drop them."
     At that very moment the water that was boiling in the coffee percolator
made a loud perking sound.
     "Hear that!"  don Juan exclaimed with a shine in his eyes. "The boiling
water agrees with me."
     Then he added after a pause, "A man can get  agreements from everything
around him."
     At that  crucial  instant the  coffee  percolator  made a truly obscene
gurgling sound.
     He  looked at the percolator  and softly said, "Thank you, "nodded  his
head, and then broke into a roaring laughter.
     I was taken aback. His laughter was a bit too loud, but I was genuinely
amused by it all.
     My first real session with my  "informant" ended then. He said  goodbye
at the door  of the  restaurant. I told him  I had to visit some friends and
that I would like to see him again at the end of the following week.
     "When will you be home?" I asked.
     He scrutinized me.
     "Whenever you come, " he replied.
     "I don't know exactly when I can come."
     "Just come then and don't worry."
     "What if you're not in?"
     "I'll be there, " he said, smiling, and walked away.
     I ran after him  and  asked him if he would mind my  bringing  a camera
with me to take pictures of him and his house.
     "That's out of the question, " he said with a frown.
     "How about a tape recorder? Would you mind that?"
     "I'm afraid there's no possibility of that either."
     I became annoyed  and began to fret. I said I saw no logical reason for
his refusal.
     Don Juan shook his head negatively.
     "Forget  it,  " he  said  forcefully.  "And if you still want to see me
don't ever mention it again."
     I staged a weak  final complaint. I  said  that pictures and recordings
were indispensable  to my work. He said that  there was only one thing which
was indispensable for anything we did. He called it "the spirit."
     "One can't  do without the  spirit, " he said. "And  you don't have it.
Worry about that and not about pictures."
     "What do you . . . ?"
     He  interrupted me  with a movement of  his hand and walked backwards a
few steps.
     "Be sure to come back, " he said softly and waved goodbye.

     ERASING PERSONAL HISTORY

     Thursday, December 22, 1960

     Don Juan  was sitting on the floor, by the  door of his house, with his
back  against the wall. He turned over a  wooden  milk crate and asked me to
sit down  and make  myself  at home. I  offered him some cigarettes.  I  had
brought a carton of them. He said he did not smoke but he accepted the gift.
We talked about the coldness  of the desert nights and other ordinary topics
of conversation.
     I asked  him if I was interfering with his normal routine. He looked at
me with a sort of frown  and said he had no routines, and that  I could stay
with him all afternoon if I wanted to.
     I had prepared some genealogy and  kinship charts that I wanted to fill
out with his help.  I had also compiled, from the ethnographic literature, a
long list of culture traits that were purported to belong  to the Indians of
the area.  I wanted to  go through the  list with him and mark all the items
that were familiar to him.
     I began with the kinship charts.
     "What did you call your father?" I asked.
     "I called him Dad, " he said with a very serious face.
     I felt a little bit annoyed, but  I proceeded on the assumption that he
had not understood.
     I showed him the  chart and explained that one space was for the father
and another space was for  the mother. I gave  as an  example  the different
words used in English and in Spanish for father and mother.
     I thought that perhaps I should have taken mother first.
     "What did you call your mother?" I asked.
     "I called her Mom, " he replied in a naive tone.
     "I mean what other words  did you use  to call  your father and mother?
How did you call them?" I said, trying to be patient and polite.
     He scratched his head and looked at me with a stupid expression.
     "Golly!" he said. "You got me there. Let me think."
     After a moment's  hesitation he seemed to remember something and I  got
ready to write.
     "Well, " he said, as if  he were involved in serious thought, "how else
did I call them? I called them Hey, hey, Dad! Hey, hey, Mom!"
     I laughed against my desire. His expression was  truly  comical  and at
that moment I did not know whether he was a preposterous  old man pulling my
leg or whether  he  was really a simpleton. Using all the patience  I had, I
explained to him that these were very serious questions and that it was very
important for my work to fill out the forms. I  tried to make him understand
the idea of a genealogy and personal history.
     "What were the names of your father and mother?" I asked.
     He looked at me with clear kind eyes. "Don't  waste your time with that
crap, "  he said  softly but with unsuspected force. I did not know what  to
say; it was as if someone else had  uttered those words. A moment before, he
had  been a fumbling  stupid  Indian  scratching his head,  and then, in  an
instant he had  reversed the roles; I was the stupid one, and he was staring
at  me  with an indescribable  look  that was  not  a look of  arrogance, or
defiance,  or  hatred,  or  contempt. His  eyes  were  kind  and  clear  and
penetrating.
     "I don't have any personal history,  " he said after a long pause. "One
day I  found out  that personal history was no longer necessary for  me and,
like drinking, I dropped it."
     I  did not quite understand what he meant by that. I suddenly  felt ill
at ease, threatened. I reminded him that he had assured me  that it was  all
right to ask him questions. He reiterated that he did not mind at all.
     "I  don't have  personal history  any more, " he said and looked  at me
probingly. "I dropped it one day when I felt it was no longer necessary."
     I stared at him, trying to detect the hidden meanings of his words.
     "How can one drop one's personal history?"  I asked in an argumentative
mood.
     "One  must first  have the desire  to drop it, " he said. "And then one
must proceed harmoniously to chop it off, little by little."
     "Why should anyone have such a desire?" I exclaimed.
     I  had a terribly strong attachment  to my personal history. My  family
roots were deep. I honestly felt that without them my life had no continuity
or purpose.
     "Perhaps  you should tell me what you mean by  dropping one's  personal
history, " I said.
     "To do away with it, that's what I mean, " he replied cuttingly.
     I insisted that I must not have understood the proposition.
     "Take you for instance, " I  said. "You  are a  Yaqui. You can't change
that."
     "Am I?" he asked, smiling. "How do you know that?"
     "True!" I said. "I can't know that with  certainty,  at this point, but
you know it and that is what counts. That's what makes it personal history."
     I felt I had driven a hard nail in.
     "The  fact that I know whether I  am a  Yaqui or not  does not  make it
personal history, "  he replied. "Only when someone else knows  that does it
become personal history.  And I  assure you that no one will  ever know that
for sure."
     I had written down what he had said  in a clumsy way. I stopped writing
and looked at him. I could not figure him  out. I  mentally ran  through  my
impressions of him; the mysterious and unprecedented way he had looked at me
during  our  first meeting,  the charm  with  which he had claimed  that  he
received agreement  from everything around  him, his  annoying humor and his
alertness, his look of bona fide stupidity when I asked about his father and
mother, and then the unsuspected force of  his statements which had  snapped
me apart.
     "You don't know what I  am, do you?" he  said  as if he were reading my
thoughts. "You  will never know who or  what  I  am, because I don't have  a
personal history."
     He asked me if I had a father. I told him I did. He said that my father
was  an  example of what he  had  in mind. He urged me to  remember  what my
father thought of me.
     "Your father knows everything about you, " he said. "So he has you  all
figured out. He  knows who you are and what you do, and there is no power on
earth that can make him change his mind about you."
     Don Juan said that everybody that  knew me had an  idea  about  me, and
that I  kept feeding that  idea with everything  I did. "Don't you  see?" he
asked dramatically. "You  must renew your personal  history by  telling your
parents, your relatives, and your friends everything  you  do.  On the other
hand, if you have no personal history, no explanations are needed; nobody is
angry or disillusioned with your acts.  And above all  no one pins  you down
with their thoughts."
     Suddenly the  idea  became  clear in  my  mind.  I  had almost known it
myself, but I had never examined  it. Not having personal history was indeed
an appealing  concept,  at  least on  the intellectual level;  it  gave  me,
however, a sense of loneliness which I found threatening  and distasteful. I
wanted  to  discuss  my  feelings with  him,  but I  kept  myself in  check;
something  was  terribly  incongruous  in  the  situation at  hand.  I  felt
ridiculous trying to  get into  a philosophical argument with an old  Indian
who obviously did not  have the "sophistication"  of  a university  student.
Somehow he had led me away from my original  intention  of  asking him about
his genealogy.
     "I don't  know how we ended up talking about this when all I wanted was
some names for my charts, " I said, trying to steer the conversation back to
the topic I wanted.
     "It's terribly simple, " he said. "The way we ended up talking about it
was because  I said that to ask  questions  about  one's past is  a bunch of
crap."
     His tone was  firm. I felt there  was no  way to  make him  budge, so I
changed my tactics.
     "Is this idea of not  having personal history something that the Yaquis
do?" I asked.
     "It's something that I do."
     "Where did you learn it?"
     "I learned it during the course of my life."
     "Did your father teach you that?"
     "No. Let's  say that I learned it by myself  and now I am going to give
you its secret, so you won't go away empty-handed today."
     He  lowered  his  voice  to  a  dramatic  whisper.  I  laughed  at  his
histrionics.  I  had to admit that he  was  stupendous  at that. The thought
crossed my mind that I was in the presence of a born actor.
     "Write it down, " he said patronizingly. "Why not? You  seem to be more
comfortable writing."
     I looked at him and my eyes must have betrayed my confusion. He slapped
his thighs and laughed with great delight.
     "It is  best to  erase all  personal history, "  he said  slowly, as if
giving me time to write it down  in  my clumsy way, "because that would make
us free from the encumbering thoughts of other people."
     I  could not  believe that he was  actually saying that.  I had a  very
confusing moment. He must have read in my face my inner turmoil  and used it
immediately.
     "Take yourself, for instance, " he went on saying. "Right now you don't
know whether you are coming or going. And  that is so, because I have erased
my personal history. I have,  little by little, created a  fog around me and
my life. And now nobody knows for sure who I am or what I do."
     "But, you yourself know who you are, don't you?" I interjected.
     "You bet I ... don't,  " he exclaimed and rolled on the floor, laughing
at my surprised look.
     He had paused long enough to  make  me believe that he was going to say
that  he  did  know,  as  I was  anticipating  it. His  subterfuge  was very
threatening to me. I actually became afraid.
     "That is the little secret I am going to give you today, " he said in a
low voice. "Nobody knows my personal history. Nobody knows who I  am or what
I do. Not even I."
     He squinted his  eyes. He was not  looking at me but beyond me over  my
right shoulder. He  was  sitting cross-legged, his back was straight and yet
he seemed to  be  so  relaxed. At that moment  he  was  the  very picture of
fierceness. I fancied him to be an Indian  chief, a "red-skinned warrior" in
the romantic frontier sagas  of my childhood. My romanticism carried me away
and  the  most  insidious  feeling  of ambivalence  enveloped  me.  I  could
sincerely say that I liked him a great deal  and in  the same breath I could
say that I was deadly afraid of him.
     He maintained that strange stare for a long moment.
     "How  can  I know  who I am, when I am all this?" he said, sweeping the
surroundings with a gesture of his head. Then he glanced at me and smiled.
     "Little by little you must create a fog around yourself; you must erase
everything around you until nothing can be taken for granted, until  nothing
is any longer for  sure, or real. Your problem  now is that you're too real.
Your endeavors are  too real; your moods are too real. Don't take things  so
for granted. You must begin to erase yourself."
     "What for?" I asked belligerently.
     It became clear to me then that he was prescribing behavior for me. All
my  life I  had reached a breaking point when someone  attempted  to tell me
what  to do; the mere thought of being told what to do put me immediately on
the defensive.
     "You said that you wanted  to learn about plants, " he said calmly. "Do
you want to get something for nothing?  What do you think this is? We agreed
that you would ask me questions  and I'd tell you what I  know. If you don't
like it, there is nothing else we can say to each other."
     His  terrible  directness made  me  feel  peeved,  and  begrudgingly  I
conceded that he was right.
     "Let's  put it this way then, " he went on. "If you want to learn about
plants, since there is  really  nothing to  say  about them, you must, among
other things, erase your personal history."
     "How?" I asked.
     "Begin with simple things, such  as not revealing  what you  really do.
Then you must leave everyone who knows  you well. This way you'll build up a
fog around yourself."
     "But  that's  absurd, " I  protested. "Why  shouldn't  people know  me?
What's wrong with that?"
     "What's  wrong is that once they know you, you are an affair  taken for
granted and from that moment on  you won't be able to break the tie of their
thoughts. I personally like  the  ultimate freedom of being  unknown. No one
knows me with steadfast certainty, the way people know you, for instance."
     "But that would be lying."
     "I'm not  concerned  with lies or truths, " he said severely. "Lies are
lies only if  you have  personal history." I argued that  I did  not like to
deliberately mystify people or mislead them. His reply  was  that  I  misled
everybody anyway.
     The old man had touched a sore spot in my life. I did not pause to  ask
him what he meant  by that  or how he knew  that I  mystified people all the
time.  I  simply  reacted to his statement, defending myself by  means of an
explanation. I said that I was painfully aware that my family and my friends
believed I was  unreliable, when in reality I had never  told  a  lie in  my
life.
     "You  always knew  how to lie,  "  he said.  "The only thing  that  was
missing was that you didn't know why to do it. Now you do."
     I  protested. "Don't you see that I'm really sick and  tired  of people
thinking that I'm unreliable?" I said.
     "But you are unreliable, " he replied with conviction.
     "Damn it to hell, man, I am not!" I exclaimed.
     My  mood, instead  of forcing  him  into  seriousness, made  him  laugh
hysterically.  I  really  despised  the  old  man  for  all  his  cockiness.
Unfortunately he was right about me.
     After a while I calmed down and he continued talking.
     "When one does not have personal history, " he explained, "nothing that
one says  can be taken for a  lie. Your trouble is that  you have to explain
everything to everybody, compulsively, and at the same time you want to keep
the freshness, the newness  of what you do. Well, since you can't be excited
after explaining everything you've done, you lie in order to keep on going."
     I was truly bewildered by the  scope of our  conversation. I wrote down
all the details  of our exchange in the best way I  could, concentrating  on
what he was saying rather than pausing to deliberate  on my prejudices or on
his meanings.
     "From now on, " he said, "you must simply show people whatever you care
to show them, but without ever telling exactly how you've done it."
     "I can't keep secrets!" I exclaimed. "What you are saying is useless to
me."
     "Then change!" he said cuttingly and with a fierce glint in his eyes.
     He looked like a strange wild animal. And yet he was so coherent in his
thoughts  and so verbal.  My  annoyance  gave way  to a  state of irritating
confusion.
     "You see, " he went on, "we only have two alternatives;  we either take
everything for sure and real, or we don't. If we follow the first, we end up
bored to death  with  ourselves and with the world. If we  follow the second
and erase personal history, we create a fog around us, a  very  exciting and
mysterious  state in which nobody knows  where the rabbit  will pop out, not
even ourselves."
     I  contended  that erasing personal  history  would  only increase  our
sensation of insecurity.
     "When nothing is for sure we remain alert, perennially on our toes," he
said.  "It is more  exciting not  to know  which  bush  the rabbit is hiding
behind than to behave as though we know everything."
     He did not say another  word for a very long time; perhaps an hour went
by in complete  silence. I did  not know what to ask. Finally he  got up and
asked me to drive him to the nearby town.
     I  did not  know why but our conversation  had drained me. I felt  like
going  to sleep. He asked me to stop on the way and told me that if I wanted
to relax, I had to climb to the flat top of a small hill on  the side of the
road and lie down on my stomach with my head towards the east.
     He seemed to  have a feeling of  urgency.  I did not want  to  argue or
perhaps I was too tired to even speak. I climbed the hill and did as he  had
prescribed.
     I slept  only two or  three minutes, but it was  sufficient  to have my
energy renewed. We drove to the center of town, where he  told me to let him
off.
     "Come back, " he said as he stepped  out  of the  car. "Be sure to come
back."
     I had the opportunity of discussing  my two previous visits to Don Juan
with  the friend who had put us in  contact.  It was his opinion that I  was
wasting my  time.  I  related  to him, in  every  detail,  the scope of  our
conversations. He thought I was  exaggerating and romanticizing a  silly old
fogy.
     There was very little room in  me for romanticizing such a preposterous
old man. I  sincerely  felt  that  his  criticisms about my  personality had
seriously undermined my  liking him. Yet I had to admit that they had always
been apropos, sharply delineated, and true to the letter.
     The crux of  my  dilemma at that point  was my unwillingness to  accept
that don Juan was very capable of disrupting all my preconceptions about the
world, and my unwillingness  to agree with  my friend who believed that "the
old Indian was just nuts." I felt compelled to pay  him another visit before
I made up my mind.

     Wednesday, December 28, 1960

     Immediately  after I  arrived at his house he took me for a walk in the
desert  chaparral.  He did not even look at the bag  of groceries that I had
brought him. He seemed to have been waiting for me.
     We walked for hours.  He did not collect or show me any plants. He did,
however, teach  me an "appropriate form of walking."  He said that I  had to
curl my fingers gently as I walked so I would keep my attention on the trail
and  the  surroundings.  He  claimed  that  my  ordinary way of walking  was
debilitating and that one should ever carry anything in the hands. If things
had to be  carried one should use a knapsack  or any sort of carrying net or
shoulder  bag.  His  idea  was  that  by forcing  the  hands into a specific
position one was capable of greater stamina and greater awareness.
     I saw no  point in arguing and  curled my  fingers as he had prescribed
and kept  on  walking.  My  awareness was in  no way  different,  nor was my
stamina.
     We started our hike  in the morning and we stopped to rest around noon.
I was perspiring and tried  to drink  from my canteen, but he  stopped me by
saying  that it was better to  have only a  sip of water. He cut some leaves
from a small yellowish bush and  chewed them.  He gave me some  and remarked
that  they were  excellent,  and  if I  chewed them slowly  my thirst  would
vanish. It did not, but I was not uncomfortable either.
     He seemed to have  read my thoughts and explained that  I  had not felt
the  benefits of the  "right way of  walking or the benefits of chewing  the
leaves because I was young and  strong and my  body did not  notice anything
because it was a bit stupid.
     He laughed. I was not in  a laughing  mood and that seemed to amuse him
even more. He corrected his previous statement, saying that  my body was not
really stupid but somehow dormant.
     At that moment an enormous crow flew right over us cawing That startled
me and I began  to laugh.  I thought that the  occasion called for laughter,
but to  my utter amazement he shook my arm vigorously  and hushed me up.  He
had a most serious expression.
     "That was  not a joke,  "  he said severely, as if I knew  what  he was
talking about.
     I  asked for an explanation. I told him that it was incongruous that my
laughing at the crow had made him angry  when we had laughed at  the  coffee
percolator.
     "What you saw was not just a crow!" he exclaimed.
     "But I saw it and it was a crow, " I insisted.
     "You saw nothing, you fool, " he said in a gruff voice.
     His rudeness was uncalled for. I told him that  I did not  like to make
people angry and that perhaps it would be better if I left, since he did not
seem to be in a mood to have company. He laughed uproariously, as if I  were
a  clown  performing  for  him.  My  annoyance  and  embarrassment  grew  in
proportion. "You're very violent, "  he  commented  casually. "You're taking
yourself too seriously."
     "But  weren't  you  doing the same?"  I  interjected. "Taking  yourself
seriously when you got angry at me?"
     He said that to get angry  at me was the farthest  thing from his mind.
He looked at me piercingly.
     "What you saw was not an agreement  from  the world, " he  said. "Crows
flying or cawing are never an agreement. That was an omen!"
     "An omen of what?"
     "A very important indication about you, " he replied cryptically.
     At that very instant  the wind blew the  dry branch  of a bush right to
our feet.
     "That  was an agreement!" he exclaimed and looked at me with shiny eyes
and broke into a belly laugh.
     I had the feeling that he  was teasing me by making up the rules of his
strange game  as we went along, thus it was all right  for him to laugh, but
not for me. My annoyance mushroomed  again and I  told him what I thought of
him.
     He was not cross or offended at all. He laughed and his laughter caused
me even more anguish  and frustration.  I thought  that he was  deliberately
humiliating me. I decided right then that I had had my fill of "field work."
     I stood up  and said that I wanted  to start  walking back to his house
because I had to leave for Los Angeles.
     "Sit down!" he said imperatively. "You get peeved like an old lady. You
cannot leave now, because we're not through yet."
     I hated him. I thought he was a contemptuous man.
     He  began  to  sing  an idiotic  Mexican  folk song.  He  was obviously
imitating some popular singer. He elongated certain syllables and contracted
others and made the song into a most farcical affair. It was so comical that
I ended up laughing.
     "You see, you laugh at  the  stupid song, " he said. "But  the man  who
sings it that way and those who pay to listen to him are  not laughing; they
think it is serious."
     "What do you mean?" I asked.
     I thought he had deliberately concocted the  example  to tell me that I
had laughed at the crow because I had not taken it seriously, the same way I
had not  taken the song  seriously. But he baffled me again. He said  I  was
like the singer and the  people  who  liked his songs,  conceited and deadly
serious about some nonsense that no one in his right mind should give a damn
about.
     He  then  recapitulated, as if to refresh my  memory, all  he  had said
before  on the  topic  of "learning about  plants." He stressed emphatically
that if I really wanted to learn, I had to remodel most of my behavior.
     My sense  of  annoyance  grew, until I  had to make a supreme effort to
even take notes.
     "You take yourself too seriously,  "  he said slowly. "You are too damn
important in  your  own  mind.  That  must  be changed! You are  so  goddamn
important that you feel justified to be annoyed  with everything. You're  so
dam important that  you  can afford to  leave if things don't go your way. I
suppose you  think that  shows you  have character.  That's nonsense! You're
weak, and conceited!"
     I tried to stage a protest but he did not budge. He pointed out that in
the course of my life I had not ever finished anything because of that sense
of disproportionate importance that I attached to myself.
     I was flabbergasted at the certainty with which he made his statements.
They  were  true, of course, and that made me  feel not only  angry but also
threatened.
     "Self-importance is  another  thing that  must  be  dropped, just  like
personal history, " he said in a dramatic tone.
     I  certainly did not want to argue  with him. It was obvious that I was
at a terrible disadvantage; he was not going to walk-back to his house until
he was ready and I did not know the way. I had to stay with him.
     He  made a strange  and  sudden  movement, he sort  of sniffed the  air
around him, his head shook slightly and rhythmically.
     He seemed to be  in a state  of unusual alertness. He turned and stared
at me with a look of  bewilderment and curiosity. His eyes swept up and down
my  body  as if  he were looking for  something  specific; then he  stood up
abruptly and began  to  walk fast. He was almost running. I followed him. He
kept a very accelerated pace for nearly an hour.
     Finally he stopped by a rocky hill and we  sat in the shade of  a hush.
The trotting had exhausted me completely although my mood was better. It was
strange the way I had changed.
     I  felt  almost  elated, but when  we  had  started to trot,  after our
argument, I was furious with him.
     "This is very weird, " I said, "but I feel really good."
     I heard  the cawing of a  crow in the distance. He lifted his finger to
his right ear and smiled.
     "That was an omen, " he said.
     A small rock tumbled downhill and made a crashing sound when  it landed
in the chaparral.
     He laughed  out  loud and  pointed  his finger in the direction  of the
sound.
     "And that was an agreement, " he said.
     He then asked me if  I was  ready to talk  about my self importance.  I
laughed; my feeling  of anger seemed  so  far away  that I  could  not  even
conceive how I had become so cross with him.
     "I  can't understand what's happening to me, " I said. "I got angry and
now I don't know why I am not angry any more."
     "The world around us is very  mysterious, "  he said. "It doesn't yield
its secrets easily."
     I liked his cryptic statements. They were challenging and mysterious. I
could not determine whether they were filled with hidden meanings or whether
they were just plain nonsense.
     "If you ever come back to the desert here, " he said,  "stay  away from
that rocky hill where we stopped today. Avoid it like the plague."
     "Why? What's the matter?"
     "This is not  the time to explain  it, " he said. "Now we are concerned
with  losing self importance. As  long as  you  feel that you  are the  most
important thing in the  world you cannot really appreciate  the world around
you. You are like a horse with blinders, all  you see is yourself apart from
everything else."
     He examined me for a moment.
     "I am going to talk to my little friend here, "  he said, pointing to a
small plant. He kneeled in front of it and began to caress it and to talk to
it. I did not understand what he was saying at first, but then  he  switched
languages and talked  to  the  plant in Spanish. He babbled inanities  for a
while. Then he stood up.
     "It doesn't matter what you say to a plant, " he said. "You can just as
well  make up words; what's  important  is  the  feeling  of liking  it, and
treating  it as  an equal." He explained that a man who  gathers plants must
apologize  every time for taking them and must assure them that  someday his
own body  will serve  as food  for  them.  "So,  all in all, the  plants and
ourselves  are even,  " he  said. "Neither  we  nor  they  are more  or less
important.
     "Come on,  talk to the little plant, "  he urged me. "Tell it  that you
don't feel important any more."
     I went as  far as  kneeling in front of the plant but I could not bring
myself to  speak to it.  I  felt ridiculous  and  laughed. I was  not angry,
however. Don Juan patted me on the back and said that it was all right, that
at least I had contained my temper.
     "From now on talk to the little plants," he said. "Talk until you  lose
all sense  of importance.  Talk to  them until  you  can do it  in  front of
others.
     "Go to those hills over  there and practice by yourself." I asked if it
was all right  to talk to the plants  silently, in  my mind.  He laughed and
tapped my head.
     "No!"  he said. "You must talk to them in a loud and clear voice if you
want them to answer you."
     I walked  to  the  area  in  question,  laughing  to  myself about  his
eccentricities. I even tried to  talk to the plants, but my feeling of being
ludicrous was overpowering.
     After what I thought was  an appropriate wait I  went back to where don
Juan was. I had the  certainty that he knew I had not talked to  the plants.
He  did not look  at  me.  He signaled  me  to sit down  by him.  "Watch  me
carefully, " he said. "I'm going to have a talk with my little friend."
     He kneeled down in  front  of a small plant  and  for  a few minutes he
moved and contorted his body, talking and  laughing. I thought he was out of
his mind.
     "This little plant told me to  tell  you that she is good to eat,  " he
said as he got up from  his kneeling  position. "She said  that a handful of
them would keep  a man healthy. She also said that there  is a batch of them
growing  over there." Don Juan pointed  to an area on a hillside perhaps two
hundred yards away.
     "Let's go and find out, " he said.
     I laughed  at  his  histrionics. I  was sure we  would find the plants,
because  he was an  expert in the terrain  and  knew  where  the  edible and
medicinal plants were. As we walked towards the area  in question he told me
casually that  I should take notice of  the plant because it was both a food
and a  medicine. I asked him, half in  jest, if the plant  had just told him
that. He stopped walking and examined me  with an air of disbelief. He shook
his head from side to side.
     "Ah!"  he  exclaimed, laughing.  "Your cleverness makes you  more silly
than I thought. How can the little  plant tell me now what I've known all my
life?"
     He  proceeded  then to  explain that  he  knew all along the  different
properties of that specific plant, and that the plant had just told him that
there was a  batch  of them growing  in the area he had pointed to, and that
she did not mind if he told me that.
     Upon arriving at  the  hillside I  found a  whole  cluster of  the same
plants. I wanted to laugh but he did not give me time. He wanted me to thank
the  batch of plants. I felt  excruciatingly self  conscious  and could  not
bring  myself to  do  it. He  smiled benevolently  and  made  another of his
cryptic statements. He repeated it three or four times as if to give me time
to figure out its meaning.
     "The world around us is a mystery, " he  said. "And  men are  no better
than anything else. If a little plant is generous with us we must thank her,
or perhaps she will not let  us go." The way he  looked  at  me when he said
that gave me a chill.
     I hurriedly  leaned over the plants and said, "Thank you,  " in  a loud
voice.
     He began to laugh in controlled and quiet spurts. We walked for another
hour  and then started on our way back to his house.  At a  certain  time  I
dropped behind and he had to  wait for me. He checked my fingers to see if I
had curled  them.  I had not. He told me imperatively that whenever I walked
with him I had to observe and copy his mannerisms or not come along at all.
     "I can't  be waiting for you as though  you're  a child, " he said in a
scolding tone. That statement  sunk me into the depths of  embarrassment and
bewilderment.  How could it be  possible that such  an old man could walk so
much better than I? I thought  I was  athletic and strong,  and  yet he  had
actually had to wait for me to catch up with him.
     I  curled my  fingers  and  strangely enough  I was  able  to keep  his
tremendous  pace without any effort. In  fact, at times I felt that my hands
were  pulling me forward. I felt elated. I  was quite happy walking  inanely
with the strange old Indian. I began to  talk  and  asked  repeatedly  if he
would show me some peyote plants. He looked at me but did not say a word.

     DEATH IS AN ADVISER

     Wednesday, January 25, 1961

     "Would  you teach me someday about peyote?" I asked. He did not  answer
and, as he had done before, simply looked at me as if I were crazy.
     I had mentioned the topic to him, in casual conversation, various times
already,  and  every time  he  frowned  and  shook his  head. It was  not an
affirmative or a negative gesture; it was rather a  gesture of  despair  and
disbelief.
     He stood up abruptly. We had been sitting on the ground in front of his
house.  An almost  imperceptible  shake of  his head  was  the invitation to
follow him. We went into the desert chaparral in a southerly direction.
     He mentioned  repeatedly as we  walked that I had  to  be aware  of the
uselessness of my self importance and of my personal history.
     "Your friends, " he said, turning to me abruptly. "Those who have known
you  for a long  time, you must leave them quickly." I thought he  was crazy
and his insistence was idiotic, but I did not say  anything. He peered at me
and began to laugh.
     After a long hike we came to a  halt. I was about to sit  down and rest
but he told me to go some twenty yards away and talk 10 a batch of plants in
a  loud  and  clear voice. I felt ill  at ease  and apprehensive. His  weird
demands were more  than  I could bear and I  told him once more that I could
not speak to plants, because I felt ridiculous. His only comment was that my
feeling of self  importance was immense. He  seemed to  have  made a  sudden
decision and said that I should not  try to talk to plants until I felt easy
and natural about it.
     "You want to learn about  them and yet you don't want to do any work, "
he said accusingly. "What are you trying to do?
     My explanation was  that I wanted bona fide information  about the uses
of plants,  thus I had asked  him to be my informant. I had  even offered to
pay him for his time and trouble.
     "You should  take the  money,  " I said.  "This  way we both wouId feel
better. I could then ask you anything I want to because you would be working
for me and I would pay you for it. What do you think of that?"
     He  looked  at me  contemptuously and  made  an obscene sound with  his
mouth, making his lower  lip and his tongue vibrate  by  exhaling with great
force.
     "That's  what I think  of it, " he said and laughed hysterically at the
look of utmost surprise that I must have had on my face.
     It was obvious to me that he was not a man I could easily contend with.
In spite of his age, he was ebullient and unbelievably strong. I had had the
idea that,  being so old, he could have been the perfect "informant" for me.
Old people, I had been led to believe, made the best informants because they
were  too feeble  to  do anything else except  talk. Don  Juan, on the other
hand, was a miserable subject. I felt he was unmanageable and dangerous. The
friend who had introduced us was right.  He was an eccentric old Indian; and
although he was not plastered out of his mind most of the time, as my friend
had told me, he was worse yet, he was crazy. I again felt the terrible doubt
and apprehension I had experienced before. I thought I had overcome that. In
fact,  I had had no trouble  at all convincing myself that I wanted to visit
him again. The  idea had crept into my  mind, however, that perhaps I  was a
bit crazy myself when I realized that I  liked to be with him. His idea that
my feeling of self importance was an obstacle  had really made an impact  on
me. But  all that was apparently only an intellectual exercise on  my  part;
the moment I  was  confronted with his  odd behavior,  I began to experience
apprehension and I wanted to leave.
     I  said  that  I  believed we were  so  different  that  there  was  no
possibility of our getting along.
     "One of us has to change, " he said, staring at  the  ground. "And  you
know who."
     He began humming a Mexican folk song and then lifted his  head abruptly
and looked at me. His eyes were fierce and burning. I wanted to look away or
close  my eyes,  but to  my utter amazement I could not break away  from his
gaze.
     He asked me to tell him what I had seen in his eyes. I said that I  saw
nothing, but he insisted that I had to voice what his eyes had  made me feel
aware of.  I struggled to  make him understand that  the only thing his eyes
made me aware of was my embarrassment, and that the way he was looking at me
was very discomforting.
     He did  not let  go. He  kept a steady  stare.  It was not  an outright
menacing or mean look; it was rather a mysterious but unpleasant gaze.
     He asked me if he reminded me of a bird.
     "A bird?" I exclaimed.
     He giggled like a child and moved his eyes away from me.
     "Yes, " he said softly. "A bird, a very funny bird!"
     He  locked his gaze  on me  again and commanded me to remember. He said
with an extraordinary conviction that he "knew" I had seen that look before.
     My feelings of the moment were that the old man provoked me, against my
honest desire, every time he opened his mouth.
     I stared back  at him in  obvious defiance. Instead of getting angry he
began to laugh. He slapped his thigh and yelled as  if he were riding a wild
horse.  Then he became serious and told me that it was  of utmost importance
that I stop  fighting him and remember that funny bird he was talking about.
"Look into my eyes, " he said.
     His eyes were extraordinarily fierce. There  was a  feeling  about them
that actually  reminded me of  something but I was  not sure what it  was. I
pondered upon  it for a moment and then I  had a sudden realization; it  was
not  the  shape  of his eyes  nor the  shape of  his  head,  but  some  cold
fierceness  in  his  gaze that had reminded  me of the look in the eyes of a
falcon. At the very moment  of that realization he was looking at me and for
an  instant  my  mind  experienced  a total chaos.  I thought  I had seen  a
falcon's features instead of don Juan's.
     The  image  was  too  fleeting  and I was too  upset  to have paid more
attention to it.
     In a very excited tone  I told him  that  I could have sworn I had seen
the features of a falcon on his face. He had another attack of laughter.
     I have seen the look in the eyes of falcons. I used to hunt them when I
was a boy, and in the opinion of my grandfather I was good. He had a Leghorn
chicken farm and falcons were  a menace  to his  business. Shooting them was
not only functional but also "right." I had forgotten until that moment that
the fierceness of their eyes had haunted me for years,  but it was so far in
my past that I thought I had lost the memory of it.
     "I used to hunt falcons, " I said.
     "I know it, " don Juan replied matter-of-factly.
     His  tone carried such a certainty that I began to laugh. I  thought he
was a preposterous fellow. He  had the  gall to  sound  as  if he knew I had
hunted falcons. I felt supremely contemptuous of him.
     "Why do you get so angry?" he asked in a tone of genuine concern.
     I did not  know why. He  began to probe me in a very unusual manner. He
asked me to  look at him again and tell him about  the  "very funny bird" he
reminded me of. I  struggled against him and out of contempt said that there
was nothing to talk  about. Then I felt compelled to ask him why he had said
he knew I  used to hunt falcons. Instead  of answering me he again commented
on my behavior. He said I was a violent fellow that was capable of "frothing
at  the mouth" at the drop of a hat. I protested that that  was  not true; I
had always had the idea I was rather congenial and easy going. I said it was
his fault for  forcing me  out of  control  with  his  unexpected words  and
actions.
     "Why the anger?" he asked.
     I took stock of my feelings and reactions. I really had  no need to  be
angry with him. He again insisted that I should look into his  eyes and tell
him  about  the "strange  falcon." He had changed his  wording;  he had said
before, "a  very funny bird, " then he substituted it with "strange falcon."
The  change in  wording summed up a  change  in  my own mood. I had suddenly
become sad.
     He  squinted  his  eyes until they  were  two slits and said in an over
dramatic voice that he was "seeing" a very strange falcon.
     He  repeated his statement three times as if he were actually seeing it
there in front of him.
     "Don't you remember it?" he asked.
     I did not remember anything of the sort.
     "What's strange about the falcon?" I asked.
     "You must tell me that, " he replied.
     I  insisted  that I had  no  way of  knowing what he  was referring to,
therefore I could not tell him anything.
     "Don't fight me!" he said. "Fight your sluggishness and remember."
     I  seriously struggled for a moment to figure him out. It did not occur
to me that I could just as well have tried to remember.
     "There was a time  when you saw a  lot of  birds, "  he said as  though
cueing me. I told him that when I was a child I had lived on  a farm and had
hunted hundreds of birds.
     He said  that  if  that was the  case I should  not have any difficulty
remembering all the funny birds I had hunted.
     He looked at me with a question in his eyes, as if he had just given me
the last clue. "I have hunted so many birds, " I said, "that I  can't recall
anything about them."
     "This  bird is special, " he replied almost in a whisper. "This bird is
a falcon."
     I became involved  again in figuring out what he was driving at. Was he
teasing  me? Was  he  serious?  After a long  interval he urged me again  to
remember. I felt that it was useless for me to try to end his play; the only
other thing I could do was to join him.
     "Are you talking about a falcon that I have hunted?" I asked.
     "Yes, " he whispered with his eyes closed.
     "So this happened when I was a boy?"
     "Yes." .
     "But you said you're seeing a falcon in front of you now."
     "I am."
     "What are you trying to do to me?"
     "I'm trying to make you remember."
     "What? For heaven's sakes!"
     "A falcon swift as light, " he said, looking at me in the eyes.
     I felt my heart had stopped.
     "Now look at me, " he said.
     But I  did not.  I heard  his voice  as  a faint sound. Some stupendous
recollection had taken me wholly. The white falcon!
     It all  began with my  grandfather's  explosion of anger upon taking  a
count of his young Leghorn chickens. They had been disappearing in a  steady
and  disconcerting  manner.  He  personally  organized  and  carried  out  a
meticulous  vigil, and after days of  steady watching  we finally  saw a big
white  bird flying away with a young Leghorn  chicken in its claws. The bird
was fast and apparently  knew its route.  It  swooped  down from behind some
trees, grabbed the chicken  and  flew  away  through an opening between  two
branches. It happened so fast that my grandfather had hardly seen  it, but I
did and I knew that it was indeed a falcon. My grandfather said that if that
was the case it had to be an albino.
     We  started a campaign against  the albino falcon and twice I thought I
had gotten it. It even  dropped its prey, but it got  away.  It was too fast
for me. It was  also very intelligent; it  never  came  back to  hunt  on my
grandfather's farm.
     I  would have forgotten  about  it had my grandfather not needled me to
hunt the bird. For two months I chased the albino falcon all over the valley
where  I lived. I learned its habits and I  could almost intuit its route of
flight, yet its  speed  and the suddenness of  its  appearance  would always
baffle me.
     I could boast  that I had  prevented  it from taking  its prey, perhaps
every time we had met, but I could never bag it.
     In the two months that I  carried on the strange war against the albino
falcon I came close to it only once. I had been chasing it all day and I was
tired. I had sat down to rest and fell  asleep under a tall eucalyptus tree.
The sudden cry of a falcon woke me  up. I opened my eyes without  making any
other movement and I saw  a whitish  bird perched in the highest branches of
the eucalyptus tree. It was the  albino falcon. The  chase was  over. It was
going to  be a difficult shot; I was  lying  on my back and the bird had its
back turned to me. There was a sudden gust of wind and I used  it  to muffle
the noise  of lifting my .22 long rifle to take aim. I  wanted to wait until
the bird had turned or until it had begun to fly so I would not miss it.
     But the albino bird remained motionless. In order to take a better shot
I would have needed to move and the falcon was too fast  for that. I thought
that my best alternative was  to wait. And I did, a long, interminable time.
Perhaps what affected me was the long wait, or perhaps it was the loneliness
of the spot where  the bird and I were; I  suddenly felt a chill up my spine
and in an  unprecedented action I stood up and left. I  did not even look to
see if the bird had flown away.
     I never  attached any  significance to my  final  act  with  the albino
falcon. However, it was terribly strange that I did not shoot it. I had shot
dozens  of falcons before.  On the farm  where I grew up, shooting  birds or
hunting  any kind  of animal  was  a  matter  of  course. Don  Juan listened
attentively as I told him the story of the albino falcon.
     "How did you know about the white falcon?" I asked when I had finished.
     "I saw it, " he replied.
     "Where?"
     "Right here in front of you."
     I was not in an argumentative mood any more.
     "What does all this mean?" I asked.
     He  said that a white bird like that was an omen, and that not shooting
it down was the only right thing to do.
     "Your  death gave  you a  little warning, " he said  with  a mysterious
tone. "It always comes as a chill."
     "What are you talking about?" I said nervously.
     He really made me nervous with his spooky talk.
     "You know a lot about  birds, " he  said.  "You've  killed too many  of
them. You  know how to wait.  You  have waited patiently for  hours. I  know
that. I am seeing it."
     His words caused a great  turmoil in me. I thought that what annoyed me
the  most  about him  was  his certainty.  I  could not stand  his  dogmatic
assuredness about issues in my own life that  I  was  not sure  of myself. I
became engulfed in my feelings  of dejection  and I did  not see him leaning
over  me until  he  actually  had  whispered  something in  my  ear.  I  did
not-understand  at first  and  he  repeated  it. He told  me to turn  around
casually and look at a  boulder to my left. He said that my  death was there
staring  at me and  if I turned when he signaled me I might  be  capable  of
seeing it.
     He signaled me with his eyes. I turned and I thought I saw a flickering
movement  over the boulder. A chill ran  through my body,  the muscles of my
abdomen contracted involuntarily  and I experienced a jolt, a spasm. After a
moment I regained my composure and I explained away the sensation of  seeing
the  flickering  shadow as an optical illusion caused by turning my head  so
abruptly.
     "Death is our  eternal companion, " don  Juan said  with a most serious
air. "It is always to our left, at an arm's length. It was watching you when
you were  watching the white falcon; it whispered in  your ear and  you felt
its chill,  as you felt it today. It has always been watching you. It always
will until the day it taps you."
     He extended his arm and  touched me lightly on the shoulder and  at the
same time he  made a deep clicking  sound  with  his tongue. The effect  was
devastating; I almost got sick to my stomach.
     "You're the boy who stalked  game and waited patiently, as death waits;
you know very well that death is to our left,  the same way you were to  the
left of the white falcon."
     His  words had  the  strange  power  to plunge  me into an  unwarranted
terror; my only defense was my compulsion to commit to writing everything he
said.
     "How can anyone feel so important when  we know that death  is stalking
us?" he asked.
     I had the feeling my answer  was not  really  needed. I  could not have
said anything anyway. A new mood had possessed me.
     "The thing to do  when you're impatient, " he proceeded, "is to turn to
your left and ask  advice from your death. An immense amount of pettiness is
dropped if  your death makes  a gesture to you, or if you catch a glimpse of
it, or  if you just have the feeling  that your companion  is there watching
you."
     He leaned over  again  and whispered in my  ear that if I  turned to my
left  suddenly, upon seeing his signal, I could again see  my death  on  the
boulder. His eyes gave me an almost imperceptible signal, but I did not dare
to look.
     I  told him  that I believed him and that he did not have  to press the
issue any further, because I was terrified. He had one of his roaring  belly
laughs. He replied that the issue of our death was never pressed far enough.
And  I argued  that it would  be meaningless for me  to dwell upon my death,
since such a thought would only bring discomfort and fear.
     "You're full of crap!"  he exclaimed.  "Death is the  only wise advisor
that we  have. Whenever you feel, as you always do, that everything is going
wrong and you're about to be annihilated, turn to your death and ask if that
is  so. Your  death  will  tell you  that you're wrong; that nothing  really
matters outside its touch. Your death will tell  you, 'I haven't touched you
yet.' "
     He shook his head and seemed to be waiting for my reply. I had none. My
thoughts  were running rampant.  He had  delivered a  staggering  blow to my
egotism. The pettiness of being annoyed with him was monstrous in the  fight
of my death.
     I had the feeling he was  fully aware  of  my  change of  mood. He  had
turned the tide in his  favor. He smiled  and  began to hum a Mexican  tune.
"Yes,  " he said softly after a long  pause. "One of us here  has to change,
and fast.  One of  us  here has to learn again that death is the hunter, and
that it is  always  to one's left. One of us here has to ask  death's advice
and drop the cursed  pettiness that  belongs to men that live their lives as
if death will never tap them."
     We remained quiet for more than an hour, then we started walking again.
We meandered in the desert chaparral for hours. I did not ask  him  if there
was any purpose to it; it did  not matter. Somehow he had made  me recapture
an  old  feeling, something  I  had quite  forgotten,  the sheer joy of just
moving around without attaching any intellectual purpose to it. I wanted him
to let me catch a glimpse of whatever I had seen on the boulder.
     "Let me see that shadow again, " I said.
     "You mean  your death, don't you?" he replied with a touch of irony  in
his voice. For a moment I felt reluctant to voice it.
     "Yes, " I finally said. "Let me see my death once again."
     "Not now, " he said. "You're too solid."
     "I beg your pardon?"
     He  began  to  laugh and  for  some unknown reason his  laughter was no
longer offensive and insidious, as it had been in the past. I did  not think
that it was different, from the point of view of its pitch, or its loudness,
or the  spirit of it; the  new element was my  mood. In view of my impending
death my fears and annoyance were nonsense.
     "Let me talk to plants then, " I said.
     He roared  with  laughter. "You're  too  good now,  "  he  said,  still
laughing. "You  go from one extreme to the other. Be still. There is no need
to talk to plants unless  you want to know  their secrets, and for that  you
need the  most unbending intent. So save your good  wishes. There is no need
to see your death either. It is sufficient that you feel its presence around
you."

     ASSUMING RESPONSIBILITY

     Tuesday, April, 1961

     I arrived at don Juan's house in the early morning on Sunday, April 9.
     "Good morning, don Juan;" I said. "Am I glad to see you!"
     He looked at me and broke into a soft laughter. He had walked to my car
as I was parking it and held the door open while I gathered some packages of
food that I had brought for him.
     We walked to the house  and sat  down by  the  door. This was the first
time I had been really aware of what I was doing there. For  three  months I
had actually  looked  forward  to going back to the "field." It  was as if a
time bomb  set  within  myself  had exploded  and  suddenly I had remembered
something transcendental to me. I  had remembered that once in my life I had
been very patient and very efficient.
     Before don Juan could  say anything I asked him  the  question that had
been pressing hard in my mind. For three months I had been obsessed with the
memory of the albino falcon.  How  did he know  about  it when I myself  had
forgotten? He laughed but did not answer. I pleaded with him to tell me.
     "It was  nothing,  " he  said with his  usual conviction. "Anyone could
tell that you're strange. You're just numb, that's all."
     I felt  that he was again getting me  off guard and pushing me  into  a
corner in which I did not care to be.
     "Is it possible to see our death?" I asked, trying to remain within the
topic.
     "Sure, " he said, laughing. "It is here with us."
     "How do you know that?"
     "I'm an old man; with age one learns all kinds of things."
     "I know lots of old  people, but they have never learned this. How come
you did?"
     "Well, let's say that I know all kinds of things because I don't have a
personal  history, and  because  I don't feel more  important than  anything
else, and because my death is sitting with me right here."
     He extended his left arm and moved his fingers as if he  were  actually
petting something.
     I  laughed. I knew where he was leading me. The old  devil was going to
clobber me again, probably with my  self importance, but I did not mind this
time. The memory that once I had had a  superb patience had filled me with a
strange,  implicit  euphoria  that  had  dispelled  most of  my  feelings of
nervousness and  intolerance towards don  Juan;  what I felt instead  was  a
sensation of wonder about his acts.
     "Who are you, really?" I asked.
     He seemed surprised. He opened his eyes to an enormous size and blinked
like a bird, closing  his eyelids as  if they were a shutter. They came down
and went  up again and his eyes remained in  focus. His maneuver startled me
and I recoiled, and l laughed with childlike abandon.
     "For  you, I am  Juan Matus, and I am  at your  service, " he said with
exaggerated politeness.
     I  then asked  my other burning question: "What did  you  do  to me the
first day we met?"
     I was referring to the look he had given me.
     "Me? Nothing, " he replied with a tone of innocence.
     I described to him the way I had felt  when he had looked at me and how
incongruous  it had  been for me to be  tongue tied by it.  He laughed until
tears rolled down his cheeks. I again felt a surge of animosity towards him.
I thought that  I was being so  serious and thoughtful  and  he was being so
"Indian" in his coarse ways.
     He apparently detected my mood and stopped  laughing  all of a  sudden.
After a long hesitation I told him that his laughter had  annoyed me because
I was seriously trying to understand what had happened to me.
     "There is nothing  to understand, " he replied, undisturbed. I reviewed
for him the sequence of unusual events that  had taken place since I had met
him,  starting with the mysterious look he had given  me, to remembering the
albino falcon and seeing on the boulder the shadow he had said was my death.
     "Why are you doing all this to me?" I asked.
     There was no belligerence in  my question. I was only curious as to why
it was me in particular.
     "You asked me  to tell  you what  I know  about plants, "  he  said.  I
noticed a tinge  of sarcasm in his voice. He sounded  as if he were humoring
me.
     "But what you have  told me  so far has nothing to do with plants, "  I
protested.
     His  reply was  that it took time to  learn about them. My feeling  was
that it was useless to argue  with him. I realized then the total  idiocy of
the  easy and absurd resolutions  I  had  made.  While I  was at  home I had
promised  myself  that I was never going  to lose my temper  or feel annoyed
with don Juan. In the actual situation, however, the minute he rebuffed me I
had  another  attack  of peevishness. I  felt  there was no  way for  me  to
interact with him and that angered me.
     "Think of  your death now, "  don Juan said suddenly. "It is  at  arm's
length. It may tap you  any moment,  so really you  have no time  for crappy
thoughts and moods. None of us have time for that.
     "Do you want to know what I did to you the first day we met? I saw you,
and  I saw  that you thought  you  were lying to  me.  But  you weren't, not
really."
     I told him that his explanation confused me even more.  He replied that
that  was  the  reason  he did  not  want  to explain  his  acts,  and  that
explanations were not  necessary. He said that  the only  thing that counted
was action, acting instead of talking.
     He pulled out a straw  mat  and  lay down,  propping his head up with a
bundle.  He  made  himself comfortable  and then he told me  that there  was
another thing I had to perform if I
     really wanted to learn about plants.
     "What was wrong  with you  when I saw you, and  what is wrong  with you
now, is that you  don't  like to take  responsibility for what you do,  " he
said slowly, as if to give me time
     to understand  what he was saying. "When you were  telling me all those
things in the bus depot  you were aware  that  they were lies.  Why were you
lying?"
     I explained that my objective had been to find a "key informant" for my
work.
     Don Juan smiled  and began humming a Mexican  tune. "When a man decides
to do something he must go all  the  way,  "  he  said, "but  he  must  take
responsibility for what he
     does. No  matter what  he does, he must know  first why he is doing it,
and then he must proceed with his  actions without having doubts  or remorse
about them."
     He  examined me.  I  did not know what to  say.  Finally  I ventured an
opinion, almost as a protest. "That's an impossibility!" I said.
     He  asked  me  why,  and  I said  that  perhaps ideally  that  was what
everybody thought they should do.  In practice, however, there was no way to
avoid doubts and remorse.
     "Of course there is a way, " he replied with conviction.
     "Look at me, " he said.  "I have no doubts or remorse. Everything  I do
is my decision  and my responsibility. The  simplest thing I do, to take you
for  a walk in the desert, for instance, may very well  mean my death. Death
is stalking me.  Therefore, I have no room for doubts or  remorse. If I have
to die as a result of taking you for a walk, then I must die.
     "You, on the other hand, feel that you  are immortal, and the decisions
of an immortal man can be canceled or regretted or doubted. In a world where
death is the  hunter,  my friend, there  is  no time  for regrets or doubts.
There is only time for decisions."
     I argued, in sincerity, that in  my  opinion  that was an unreal world,
because it was  arbitrarily made by taking an idealized form of behavior and
saying that that was the way to proceed.
     I told him the story of my father, who used to give me endless lectures
about the wonders  of a healthy mind in  a  healthy  body, and how young men
should  temper  their  bodies  with  hardships  and  with feats of  athletic
competition.  He was  a young  man; when I was  eight years old  he was only
twenty seven. During the summertime, as a rule, he would come from the city,
where  he  taught  school,  to  spend  at  least  a  month  with  me  at  my
grandparents' farm, where I lived. It was a hellish month for me. I told don
Juan one instance  of my father's behavior that I thought would apply to the
situation at  hand. Almost  immediately  upon arriving at the farm my father
would insist on  taking  a long walk  with me  at his side, so we could talk
things  over, and while we were  talking he would  make  plans for us to  go
swimming,  every  day at  six  a.m. At  night he  would set  the  alarm  for
five-thirty to have plenty of time, because at six sharp we had to be in the
water. And when the  alarm would go off in the morning, he would jump out of
bed, put on his glasses, go to the window and look out. I had even memorized
the ensuing monologue.
     "Uhm ...  A  bit cloudy today. Listen, I'm going  to lie down again for
just five minutes. O.K.? No more than five!  I'm just going  to  stretch  my
muscles and fully wake up."
     He would invariably fall asleep again until ten, sometimes until noon.
     I told don Juan  that  what  annoyed me  was his refusal to give up his
obviously phony resolutions. He would repeat this ritual every morning until
I would finally hurt his feelings by refusing to set the alarm clock.
     "They were  not  phony resolutions,  " don  Juan said, obviously taking
sides with  my father. "He just  didn't know how  to get out of  bed, that's
all."
     "At any rate, " I said, "I'm always leery of unreal resolutions."
     "What would be a resolution  that is real then?" don Juan asked  with a
coy smile.
     "If my  father would have said to himself that he could not go swimming
at six in the morning but perhaps at three in the afternoon."
     "Your resolutions  injure  the  spirit," don Juan said  with an  air of
great seriousness.
     I thought I even detected a note of sadness in  his tone. We were quiet
for a long time. My peevishness had vanished. I thought of my father.
     "He didn't want to swim at three in the afternoon.  Don't you see?" don
Juan said. His words made me jump.
     I told him that my father was weak, and so was his world of unreal acts
that he never performed. I was almost shouting.
     Don Juan did not say  a word. He shook his  head slowly in a rhythmical
way.  I felt terribly sad.  Thinking of my father always gave me a consuming
feeling.
     "You think you were stronger, don't you?" he asked in a casual tone.
     I said I did, and I began to tell him all the emotional turmoil that my
father had put me through, but he interrupted me.
     "Was he mean to you?" he asked.
     "No."
     "Was he petty with you?"
     "No."
     "Did he do all he could for you?"
     "Yes."
     "Then what was wrong with him?"
     Again  I began  to  shout that  he  was weak, but I  caught myself  and
lowered my voice. I felt a bit ludicrous being cross examined by don Juan.
     "What are you doing all this  for?" I said.  "We  were  supposed  to be
talking about plants."
     I felt more annoyed and despondent than ever. I told him that he had no
business or the remotest qualifications to pass judgment on my behavior, and
he exploded into a belly laugh.
     "When you get angry you always feel righteous,  don't you?" he said and
blinked like a bird.
     He was right. I  had the  tendency to  feel  justified at  being angry.
"Let's  not  talk about my father, "  I said, feigning a happy mood.  "Let's
talk about plants."
     "No, let's talk about your father, " he insisted. "That is the place to
begin today. If you think that you were so much stronger than he, why didn't
you go swimming at six in the morning in his place?"
     I told him that I could not believe he  was seriously asking me that. I
had  always thought that swimming at  six  in the  morning  was my  father's
business and not mine.
     "It was also your business from the moment you accepted his idea, " don
Juan snapped at me.
     I said that I had never accepted it, that I  had always known my father
was not  truthful to himself. Don  Juan asked me matter-of-factly why  I had
not voiced my opinions at the time.
     "You don't tell  your  father  things  like  that,  " I said as a  weak
explanation.
     "Why not?"
     "That was not done in my house, that's all."
     "You  have done worse things in your house, " he  declared like a judge
from the bench. "The only thing you never did was to shine your spirit."
     There  was such a devastating force in his words that they echoed in my
mind. He brought all my defenses down. I could not argue  with him.  I  took
refuge in writing my notes. I tried a last  feeble explanation and said that
all my  life I had encountered people of my  father's kind, who had, like my
father,  hooked  me somehow into their schemes,  and as a rule  I had always
been left dangling.
     "You are complaining, " he said softly. "You have been complaining  all
your life because you don't assume responsibility for your decisions. If you
would have assumed  responsibility for your father's idea of swimming at six
in the morning, you would have swum, by yourself  if necessary, or you would
have told him to  go to  hell  the first time he opened  his mouth after you
knew his devices.  But you didn't say anything. Therefore, you were as  weak
as your father."
     "To assume the  responsibility of one's decisions  means  that  one  is
ready to die for them."
     "Wait, wait!" I said. "You are twisting this around." He did not let me
finish. I was going to tell him that I had used my father only as an example
of an unrealistic way of acting, and that nobody  in his right mind would be
willing to die for such an idiotic thing.
     "It doesn't  matter what  the decision is, " he said. "Nothing could be
more  or less serious than anything else. Don't  you  see? In  a world where
death  is the hunter  there  are no small  or big decisions. There are  only
decisions that we make in the face of our inevitable death." I could not say
anything. Perhaps an hour went by. Don Juan was  perfectly motionless on his
mat although he was not sleeping.
     "Why do you tell me all this, don  Juan?" I asked. "Why are  you  doing
this to me?"
     "You  came  to  me,  "  he said.  "No,  that was not the case, you were
brought to me. And I have had a gesture with you."
     "I beg your pardon?"
     "You could have had a gesture with your father by swimming for him, but
you  didn't,  perhaps because you  were too young. I have  lived longer than
you. I have nothing pending. There is no hurry  in  my life, therefore I can
properly have a gesture with you."
     In  the  afternoon  we went for  a  hike. I easily kept  his  pace  and
marveled again at  his stupendous physical prowess. He walked so  nimbly and
with such sure steps that  next to  him I was  like  a child. We went in  an
easterly direction.  I noticed then  that he did  not like  to talk while he
walked. If I spoke to him he would stop walking in order to answer me.
     After a couple of hours we came to a hill; he sat down and signaled  me
to sit  by him. He announced in a mock  dramatic tone that  he was going  to
tell  me a story. He said that once upon  a time there  was  a  young man, a
destitute Indian who lived among the white men in a city. He had no home, no
relatives, no friends. He had come into the city to find his fortune and had
found only  misery and pain. From time to time  he made  a few cents working
like a mule, barely  enough for  a morsel; otherwise  he had to beg or steal
food. Don Juan said that one day the young man went  to the market place. He
walked up and down  the  street in a haze, his eyes wild upon seeing all the
good things that were gathered there. He was so frantic that  he did not see
where he was walking, and ended up tripping over some baskets and falling on
lap of an old man.
     The old man was carrying four enormous  gourds and had just sat down to
rest and eat. Don Juan smiled knowingly and  said that the old man found  it
quite  strange that the young man had  stumbled on him. He  was not angry at
being disturbed but amazed  at  why this particular young man had  fallen on
top of him. The young  man, on the other hand, was angry and told him to get
out of his way. He was not concerned at all  about the  ultimate  reason for
their meeting. He had not noticed that their paths had actually crossed.
     Don Juan mimicked the motions of someone going after something that was
rolling over. He said that the old man's  gourds had  turned  over and  were
rolling down the street. When the young man saw the gourds he thought he had
found his food for the day. He helped the old man up and insisted on helping
him carry  the heavy gourds.  The old man told him that he was on his way to
his home in the mountains  and the young man insisted  on going with him, at
least part of the way.
     The old man  took  the road to the mountains and as they  hiked he gave
the young man part of the  food he  had bought  at the market. The young man
ate  to  his heart's  content and when  he was  quite satisfied he began  to
notice how heavy the gourds were and clutched them tightly.
     Don Juan opened  his eyes  and smiled  with a devilish grin a said that
the young man asked,  "What  do you carry in these gourds?" The old  man did
not answer but told him that  he was going to show him a companion or friend
who could alleviate his  sorrows  and give him  advice and wisdom  about the
ways of the world.
     Don Juan made a majestic gesture with both hands and  said that the old
man summoned the most beautiful  deer that the young man had  ever seen. The
deer was so tame that it came to him and walked around him. It glittered and
shone.  The young  man was spellbound and  knew  right away  that  it  was a
"spirit  deer." The  old man  told him then that  if  he wished to have that
friend and its wisdom all he had to do was to let go of the gourds.
     Don Juan's grin portrayed ambition; he said that  the young man's petty
desires were pricked  upon  hearing such a request. Don Juan's  eyes  became
small and devilish as he voiced  the young man's question: "What do you have
in these four enormous gourds?"
     Don Juan said  that  the old man very  serenely  replied that,  he  was
carrying food: "pinole" and water. He stopped narrating the story and walked
around in a circle a couple of times. I did not know what he was doing.  But
apparently  it  was  part  of the story. The  circle seemed  to portray  the
deliberations of the young man. Don Juan said that, of course, the young man
had not  believed  a word.  He  calculated  that  if  the old man,  who  was
obviously a wizard, was willing to give a "spirit deer" for his gourds, then
the gourds must have been filled with power beyond belief.
     Don Juan contorted his face again into a  devilish grin and  said  that
the young man declared that he wanted to have  the gourds. There was a  long
pause that seemed to mark the end of the story. Don Juan remained quiet, yet
I was sure he wanted me to ask about it, and I did.
     "What happened to the young man?"
     "He took the gourds, " he replied with a smile of satisfaction.
     There was another long pause. I laughed. I thought that this had been a
real "Indian story." Don Juan's eyes were shining as he smiled at  me. There
was an air of innocence about him. He  began  to  laugh  in soft  spurts and
asked me, "Don't you want to know about the gourds?"
     "Of course I want to know. I thought that was the end of the story."
     "Oh no, "  he said with a mischievous light in his eyes. "The young man
took his gourds and ran away to an isolated place and opened them."
     "What did he find?" I asked.
     Don Juan glanced at me and I had the feeling  he was aware of my mental
gymnastics. He shook his head and chuckled.
     "Well, " I urged him. "Were the gourds empty?"
     "There was only food and water inside the gourds," he said.
     "And the young man, in a fit of anger, smashed them against the rocks."
     I  said that his reaction was only natural-anyone in his position would
have done the same. Don Juan's reply was that the  young  man was a fool who
did not know what he was looking for.  He did not  know what "power" was, so
he  could  not  tell  whether  or not he had found  it.  He  had  not  taken
responsibility for his decision, therefore he was angered by his blunder. He
expected to gain something and got nothing instead. Don Juan speculated that
if I were the young  man and if I had followed  my inclinations I would have
ended up angry and remorseful, and  would,  no doubt, have spent the rest of
my life feeling sorry for myself for what I had lost.
     Then he explained the behavior of  the old man. He had cleverly fed the
young man so as to give him the "daring of a satisfied stomach,  " thus  the
young  man  upon finding  only food in  the gourds smashed them in  a fit of
anger.
     "Had he been aware of his decision and assumed responsibility for it, "
don  Juan said, "he would  have taken the  food and would've been more  than
satisfied with it. And  perhaps lie might even  have realized that the  food
was power too."

     BECOMING A HUNTER

     Friday, June 23, 1961

     As soon as I sat  down I bombarded don Juan with questions. He  did not
answer me and made an impatient gesture with his hand to be quiet. He seemed
to be in a serious mood. "I was thinking that  you haven't changed at all in
the time you've been trying to learn about plants, " he said in  an accusing
tone.
     He began  reviewing in a loud voice  all the changes of  personality he
had  recommended  I should  undertake. I  told him that I had considered the
matter  very seriously and found  that I  could  not possibly  fulfill  them
because each of them  ran contrary to  my core.  He  replied  that to merely
consider them was not enough,  and that whatever he  had said  to me was not
said just for fun. I again insisted that, although I had done very little in
matters of adjusting my personal life to his ideas, I really wanted to learn
the uses of plants.
     After  a long, uneasy silence I boldly  asked  him, "Would you teach me
about peyote, don Juan?"
     He  said that my intentions  alone were  not  enough,  and that to know
about  peyote-he called  it  "Mescalito"  for the first  time-was a  serious
matter. It seemed that there was nothing else to say.
     In the early evening, however, he set up a test for me;  he put forth a
problem  without giving  me any  clues to its solution: to find a beneficial
place or spot  in the area right in front of his door where we always sat to
talk, a spot where I  could allegedly feel perfectly happy and  invigorated.
During  the course of the night,  while I attempted  to  find the "spot"  by
rolling  on  the ground,  I twice  detected  a change of  coloration on  the
uniformly dark dirt floor of the designated area.
     The problem exhausted me and I fell asleep on one of the places where I
had  detected the change in color.  In the morning don  Juan woke  me up and
announced that I had had a very successful experience.  Not only had I found
the beneficial spot I was looking for, but I had also found its opposite, an
enemy or negative spot and the colors associated with both.

     Saturday, June 24, 1961

     We  went  into the desert chaparral in the early morning. As we walked,
don Juan explained to me that finding a "beneficial"  or an "enemy" spot was
an important  need  for a man  in the wilderness.  I  wanted  to  steer  the
conversation to the topic of peyote, but he flatly refused to talk about it.
He  warned me  that  there should be no  mention  of it,  unless he  himself
brought up the subject.
     We sat down to rest in the  shade  of  some tall bushes in an  area  of
thick vegetation. The desert chaparral around us  was not quite  dry yet; it
was a warm day and the flies kept on  pestering me but they  did not seem to
bother don Juan.  I wondered whether he  was just ignoring  them  but then I
noticed they were not landing on his face at all.
     "Sometimes it is necessary to  find  a  beneficial spot quickly, out in
the open, " don Juan went on. "Or maybe it is necessary to determine quickly
whether  or not the spot where one is about to rest is a bad  one. One time,
we sat to rest by some hill and you  got very angry and upset. That spot was
your enemy. A little crow gave you a warning, remember?"
     I remembered  that he had made a point of telling me to avoid that area
in the future. I also remembered that I had become angry because he had  not
let me laugh. "I thought that the crow that flew overhead was an omen for me
alone, " he said. "I would never have suspected that the crows were friendly
towards you too."
     "What are you talking about?"
     "The crow was an omen, " he went on. "If you knew about crows you would
have  avoided the  place like  the plague. Crows are not always available to
give warning though, and you must learn to find, by yourself, a proper place
to camp or to rest."
     After a long pause don Juan suddenly  turned  to  me  and said  that in
order to find the proper place to rest all I had to do was to cross my eyes.
He gave me a knowing look and in a confidential tone told me that I had done
precisely that when I was rolling on his porch,  and thus I had been capable
of finding two  spots and their colors. He let me know that he was impressed
by my accomplishment.
     "I really don't know what I did, " I said.
     "You  crossed your eyes, " he said emphatically. "That's the technique;
you must have done that, although you don't remember it."
     Don Juan then  described the  technique, which  he said took  years  to
perfect, and which consisted of gradually forcing the eyes to see separately
the same image. The lack of image conversion entailed a double perception of
the  world; this double perception, according to  don Juan, allowed one  the
opportunity of judging  changes  in the surroundings,  which the  eyes  were
ordinarily incapable of perceiving.
     Don Juan coaxed me to try  it. He  assured me that it was not injurious
to  the  sight.  He said that I should begin by looking  in  short  glances,
almost with the corners of my eyes. He pointed to a large bush and showed me
how. I  had a strange feeling, seeing don Juan's eyes taking incredibly fast
glances at the bush. His  eyes reminded me  of those of a shifty animal that
cannot look straight.
     We walked for  perhaps an  hour while I  tried not to focus my sight on
anything. Then don Juan asked me to start separating the images perceived by
each of my eyes. After another  hour or so I got a terrible headache and had
to stop.
     "Do you  think you could find,  by yourself, a proper  place  for us to
rest?" he asked.
     I had no idea what the criterion for a "proper place" was. He patiently
explained that looking in short glances allowed the eyes to pick out unusual
sights. "Such as what?" I asked.
     "They  are not  sights proper, " he said. "They are more like feelings.
If you look at  a bush or a tree or a rock where  you may like to rest, your
eyes can make you feel whether or not that's the best resting place."
     I again urged him  to describe what those feelings  were but  he either
could not describe them or he simply did not want to. He said  that I should
practice by picking  out a place and then he would tell me whether or not my
eyes were working.
     At one  moment  I caught  sight  of what I thought was  a pebble  which
reflected light.  I could not see it if  I  focused  my eyes on it, but if I
swept the area with fast glances I  could detect a sort of faint  glitter. I
pointed out the place to don Juan.
     It  was in the middle  of  an  open unshaded flat  area devoid of thick
bushes. He  laughed  uproariously  and then  asked me why I  had picked that
specific spot. I explained that I was seeing a glitter.
     "I  don't  care  what  you  see, "  he  said. "You  could  be seeing an
elephant. How you feel is the important issue."
     I did not feel anything at all. He gave me a mysterious look  and  said
that he wished he could oblige me and sit down to rest with me there, but he
was going to sit somewhere else while I tested my choice.
     I sat down while he looked at me curiously from a distance of thirty or
forty  feet away. After a few  minutes he began to laugh loudly. Somehow his
laughter made me nervous. It put me on edge. I felt he was making  fun of me
and I got angry. I began to question my motives  for being  there. There was
definitely  something wrong in the way  my total endeavor with  don Juan was
proceeding. I felt that I was just a pawn in his clutches.
     Suddenly don Juan charged  at me,  at full speed, and pulled me by  the
arm, dragging me bodily for ten or twelve feet. He helped me to stand up and
wiped  some  perspiration  from his  forehead. I  noticed then that  he  had
exerted himself to his limit. He patted me on the  back and  said that I had
picked  the wrong place and  that he had  had to rescue  me in a real hurry,
because he saw that the spot where I was sitting was about to  take  over my
entire feelings.  I laughed. The image  of don Juan charging at me was  very
funny.  He had actually run like  a young  man. His feet moved as if he were
grabbing the  soft  reddish dirt of the desert in order to catapult  himself
over me.
     I  had seen him laughing at me and then in a matter of seconds  he  was
dragging me by the arm.
     After a while he  urged me  to continue looking for a  proper place  to
rest. We kept  on walking but I did not detect  or  "feel" anything  at all.
Perhaps if I had been more relaxed I would have noticed or felt something. I
had ceased, however, to  be angry with him. Finally he pointed to some rocks
and we  came to a halt. "Don't feel disappointed, " don Juan said. "It takes
a long time to train the eyes properly."
     I  did  not  say anything. I  was not  going to be  disappointed  about
something  I did not understand at all. Yet, I had to admit that three times
already since I  had begun to visit don Juan I had become very angry and had
been agitated to the point of being nearly ill while sitting on  places that
he called bad.
     "The trick is to feel with your eyes, " he  said. "Your problem  now is
that you don't know what to feel. It'll come to you, though, with practice."
     "Perhaps you should tell me, don Juan, what I am supposed to feel."
     "That's impossible."
     "Why?"
     "No one can tell  you what you are supposed to feel. It is not heat, or
light, or glare, or color. It is something else."
     "Can't you describe it?"
     "No. All I can do is give you the technique. Once you learn to separate
the images  and see two of everything, you must focus your  attention in the
area between the two images. Any  change worthy  of notice would take  place
there, in that area."
     "What kind of changes are they?"
     "That is not important. The feeling that  you get is what counts. Every
man  is different. You saw glitter today, but  that  did  not mean anything,
because  the feeling was missing.  I can't  tell you  how to  feel. You must
learn that yourself."
     We rested  in silence for some time. Don Juan covered his face with his
hat and remained  motionless as  if he  were  asleep.  I became  absorbed in
writing my notes, until he made a  sudden movement that made me jolt. He sat
up abruptly  and faced me, frowning.  "You have a  knack  for  hunting, " he
said. "And that's what you should learn,  hunting. We are not going to  talk
about plants any more." He puffed out his jaws for an instant, then candidly
added, "I don't think we ever have, anyway, have we?" and laughed.
     We  spent the rest of the day walking in every  direction while he gave
me an unbelievably  detailed explanation about rattlesnakes.  The  way  they
nest, the  way  they move  around, their  seasonal  habits, their  quirks of
behavior.  Then  he  proceeded to corroborate each of the points he had made
and finally he caught and killed a large snake; he cut its head off, cleaned
its viscera,  skinned  it, and  roasted the  meat. His movements  had such a
grace and skill that  it was a sheer pleasure just to be  around him. I  had
listened to him and watched him, spellbound.  My  concentration had been  so
complete that the rest of the world had practically vanished for me.
     Eating the snake was a hard reentry into the world of ordinary affairs.
I  felt nauseated when I began to chew  a bite  of snake meat. It was an ill
founded queasiness, as the meat was delicious, but  my stomach  seemed to be
rather an  independent unit.  I could hardly swallow  at  all. I thought don
Juan would have a heart attack from laughing so hard.
     Afterwards we sat down for a leisurely rest in the shade of some rocks.
I began to work on my notes, and the quantity  of them made me realize  that
he had given me an astonishing amount of information about rattlesnakes.
     "Your hunter's spirit has returned to you, " don Juan said suddenly and
with a serious face. "Now you're hooked."
     "I beg your pardon?"
     I wanted him to  elaborate on his statement that I  was hooked, but  he
only laughed and repeated it.
     "How am I hooked?" I insisted.
     "Hunters will always hunt, " he said. "I am a hunter myself."
     "Do you mean you hunt for a living?"
     "I  hunt  in  order to live. I can live  off  the  land,  anywhere." He
indicated the total surroundings with his hand.
     "To be a hunter  means  that  one knows a great deal, " he went on. "It
means that one can see the world in different ways. In  order to be a hunter
one must be in perfect balance with everything else, otherwise hunting would
become a meaningless  chore.  For  instance, today we took a little snake. I
had  to apologize  to  her  for cutting her  life  off  so  suddenly and  so
definitely; I did what I did knowing that  my own life will also be  cut off
someday in very  much the  same fashion, suddenly and definitely. So, all in
all, we and the snakes are on a par. One of them fed us today."
     "I had never conceived a balance of that kind when I used  to hunt, " I
said.
     "That's not true. You didn't just kill animals. You and your family all
ate the game."
     His statements carried the conviction of someone who had been there. He
was,  of  course,  right.  There  had  been times when  I had  provided  the
incidental wild meat for my family.
     After a moment's hesitation I asked, "How did you know that?"
     "There are certain  things that I just know,  " he said.  "I can't tell
you how though."
     I told him  that my aunts and uncles  would very seriously call all the
birds I would bag "pheasants."
     Don Juan  said he  could easily imagine them  calling a sparrow a "tiny
pheasant" and  added a  comical rendition  of  how they  would chew it.  The
extraordinary movements of his jaw gave  me the feeling that he was actually
chewing a whole bird, bones and all.
     "I really think that  you have a  touch for hunting, " he said, staring
at me.  "And we have been barking  up the wrong tree.  Perhaps  you will  be
willing to change your way of life in order to become a hunter."
     He reminded me  that I had found out, with just a little exertion on my
part, that in the world there were good and bad spots for me; he  added that
I had also found out the specific colors associated with them.
     "That  means that you have a  knack for  hunting,  " he declared.  "Not
everyone  who  tries  would find their colors and their spots  at  the  same
time."  To  be  a hunter  sounded very  nice  and  romantic, but  it was  an
absurdity to me, since I did not particularly care to hunt.
     "You don't have to  care  to  hunt or  to like  it,  " he replied to my
complaint. "You  have a natural  inclination. I think the best hunters never
like hunting; they do it well, that's all."
     I  had the  feeling  don Juan was capable  of arguing  his  way  out of
anything, and yet he maintained that he did not like to talk at all.
     "It is like  what I have told  you about hunters,  "  he said. "I don't
necessarily like  to talk.  I just have a  knack for  it  and  I do it well,
that's all." I found his mental agility truly funny.
     "Hunters  must be exceptionally  tight  individuals, " he continued. "A
hunter  leaves  very  little  to  chance.  I have been trying all  along  to
convince  you that you must learn to  live in a different way. So far I have
not succeeded.  There was  nothing  you could've  grabbed  on  to.  Now it's
different. I have brought back your old hunter's spirit, perhaps  through it
you will change."
     I protested that I did not want to become a hunter. I reminded him that
in the beginning I had just  wanted him to tell me  about medicinal  plants,
but he had made me  stray so far away from my original purpose that  I could
not clearly recall any more whether or not I had really wanted to learn
     about plants.
     "Good, " he  said. "Really good. If you don't have such a clear picture
of  what  you want, you may become more humble. "Let's put it this way.  For
your purposes  it  doesn't really matter whether  you learn  about plants or
about hunting. You've told me that yourself. You  are interested in anything
that anyone can tell you. True?" I  had said that to him in trying to define
the scope of anthropology  and  in order  to draft  him as my informant. Don
Juan chuckled, obviously aware of his control over the situation.
     "I am a hunter, " he said, as if he were reading my thoughts.
     "I leave very little to chance. Perhaps I should explain to you that  I
learned to be  a hunter. I have not always  lived the  way I  do now. At one
point in my life I had to change. Now I'm pointing the direction to you. I'm
guiding you. I know what  I'm talking about;  someone  taught me all this. I
didn't figure it out for myself."
     "Do you mean that you had a teacher, don Juan?"
     "Let's say that someone taught  me to  hunt the way I want to teach you
now, " he said and quickly changed the topic.
     "I think that once  upon a time hunting was one of the greatest acts  a
man could  perform,  " he said. "All  hunters were  powerful men. In fact, a
hunter had to be powerful to begin with in order  to withstand the rigors of
that life."
     Suddenly I became  curious. Was he referring to a time perhaps prior to
the Conquest? I began to probe him.
     "When was the time you are talking about?"
     "Once upon a time."
     "When? What does 'once upon a time' mean?"
     "It means once upon a time, or maybe it means now, today.
     It doesn't matter. At one time  everybody knew  that  a hunter was  the
best of men. Now  not everyone knows that, but there are a sufficient number
of people who do. I know it, someday you will. See what I mean?"
     "Do the Yaqui Indians feel that way  about hunters? That's what I  want
to know."
     "Not necessarily."
     "Do the Pima Indians?"
     "Not all of them. But some."
     I  named  various  neighboring  groups.  I wanted  to commit him  to  a
statement  that hunting was a shared  belief and  practice of some  specific
people. But he avoided answering me directly, so I changed the subject.
     "Why are you doing all this for me, don Juan?" I asked.
     He took off his hat and scratched his temples in feigned bafflement.
     "I'm having a gesture  with you, "  he  said softly. "Other people have
had  a similar  gesture with  you; someday you  yourself will have  the same
gesture with others. Let's say that it is my turn. One day I  found out that
if I wanted to be a hunter worthy of  self-respect I had to change my way of
life.
     I used to whine and complain a  great deal. I had good  reasons to feel
shortchanged.  I  am an Indian and Indians are treated like  dogs. There was
nothing I could do to remedy that, so all I was left with was my sorrow. But
then my good fortune spared me and someone taught me to hunt. And I realized
that the way I lived was not worth living ... so I changed it."
     "But  I  am happy with my life, don Juan. Why should  I have to  change
it?"
     He began to sing a Mexican song, very softly, and then hummed the tune.
His head bobbed up and down as he followed the beat of the song.
     "Do you think that you and I are equals?" he asked in a sharp voice.
     His question  caught me off guard.  I experienced a peculiar buzzing in
my ears as though he had actually shouted his words, which  he had not done;
however, there had been a metallic sound in his voice that was reverberating
in my ears.
     I scratched the inside of my left ear with the small  finger of my left
hand. My ears  itched  all the time and I had developed a rhythmical nervous
way of rubbing the inside of them with the  small finger of either hand. The
movement was more properly  a shake of my  whole arm.  Don  Juan watched  my
movements with apparent fascination.
     "Well . . . are we equals?" he asked.
     "Of course we're equals, " I said.
     I  was,  naturally,  being  condescending. I felt very warm towards him
even though at times I did not know what to do with him; yet I still held in
the  back of my  mind, although I would  never voice it, the belief  that I,
being  a university student,  a man of the sophisticated Western world,  was
superior to an Indian.
     "No, " he said calmly, "we are not."
     "Why, certainly we are, " I protested.
     "No, " he said in a soft voice. "We are not equals. I am a hunter and a
warrior, and you are a pimp."
     My mouth fell open. I could not believe that don Juan had actually said
that. I dropped  my notebook  and stared at him dumbfoundedly  and  then, of
course, I became furious.
     He looked at me with calm and collected eyes. I  avoided his gaze.  And
then he began to talk.  He enunciated  his  words  clearly.  They poured out
smoothly and deadly. He said that I was pimping for someone else. That I was
not fighting my  own battles but the battles of  some unknown people. That I
did not want  to learn  about plants or about hunting or about anything. And
that his world of  precise acts and  feelings and  decisions  was infinitely
more effective than the blundering idiocy I called "my life."
     After  he  finished  talking   I  was   numb.  He  had  spoken  without
belligerence or conceit but with such power, and  yet such  calmness, that I
was not even  angry  any more.  We remained silent. I  felt  embarrassed and
could not think  of anything appropriate to  say. I  waited for him to break
the silence. Hours went by. Don Juan became motionless by degrees, until his
body had acquired a  strange,  almost frightening  rigidity;  his silhouette
became  difficult to make out  as it got dark, and finally when it was pitch
black around us he seemed to have merged into  the  blackness of the stones.
His state of motionlessness was so  total that it was as if he did not exist
any longer. It was midnight when I finally realized that he could  and would
stay motionless there in that wilderness, in those rocks, perhaps forever if
he had  to. His world of precise acts and feelings and decisions  was indeed
superior. I quietly touched his arm and tears flooded me.

     BEING INACCESSIBLE

     Thursday, June 29, 1961

     Again don  Juan, as he had done every  day for nearly  a week,  held me
spellbound  with his knowledge of specific  details  about  the  behavior of
game. He first explained and then corroborated a number  of hunting  tactics
based on what he called "the quirks of quails." I became so utterly involved
in  his  explanations that  a whole  day went by  and I had not  noticed the
passage of  time. I even forgot to eat  lunch.  Don Juan made joking remarks
that it  was quite unusual for me to miss  a meal. By the end  of the day he
had caught five  quail  in a most ingenious trap,  which he had taught me to
assemble and set up.
     "Two are enough for us, " he said and let three of them loose.
     He then taught  me how to roast quail. I had wanted to  cut some shrubs
and make a barbecue pit, the way  my grandfather used to make it, lined with
green branches and leaves and sealed with dirt, but don Juan said that there
was no need to injure the shrubs, since we had already injured the quail.
     After we finished eating we walked very leisurely towards a rocky area.
We  sat on  a sandstone hillside and I  said jokingly that if  he would have
left the matter up to me I would have cooked all five of the quail, and that
my barbecue  would have tasted much better  than his roast. "No doubt,  " he
said.  "But if you would have done all  that we might have never  left  this
place in one piece."
     "What do you mean?" I asked. "What would have prevented us?"
     "The shrubs, the quail, everything around would have pitched in."
     "I never know when you are talking seriously, " I said.
     He made a gesture of feigned impatience and smacked his lips.
     "You have a weird notion of what it means to talk seriously, " he said.
"I laugh a great deal because I like to laugh yet everything I say is deadly
serious, even if you don't  understand it. Why should the  world be only  as
you think it is? Who gave you the authority to say so?"
     "There is no proof that the world is otherwise, " I said.
     It was getting dark. I was wondering if  it was time to  go back to his
house, but he did not seem to be in a hurry and I was enjoying myself.
     The  wind  was cold. Suddenly he stood  up  and  told me that we had to
climb to the hilltop and stand up on an area clear of shrubs.
     "Don't be afraid, " he said. "I'm your friend and I'll see that nothing
bad happens to you."
     "What do you mean?" I asked, alarmed.
     Don  Juan had  the most insidious  facility  to  shift  me  from  sheer
enjoyment to sheer fright.
     "The world is very strange at this time of the day, " he  said. "That's
what I mean. No matter what you see, don't be afraid."
     "What am I going to see?"
     "I don't know  yet, " he said, peering into  the  distance  towards the
south.
     He  did not seem to be worried.  I  also  kept on looking in  the  same
direction.
     Suddenly he  perked  up and  pointed with his  left hand towards a dark
area in the desert shrubbery.
     "